Wednesday, June 10, 2009

Thoughts On: Birth and Death on a Farm, Pt. 1


Chrissie Zaerpoor, farmer, cheesemaker, up-and-coming mead producer and one of the hardest-working women I know, began Kookoolan Farms in Yamhill with her husband Koorosh in order to build a life and a business together that they could be proud of. Here she reflects on what they've learned about the cycles of life on the farm.

A bittersweet cycle of beginnings and endings
By Chrissie Manion Zaerpoor

"Living in the country" conjures up such a lovely, pastoral image for most of us: fresh, soft mornings, baby animals, the bounty of harvesting from gardens and orchards, the rhythm of daily and seasonal chores, a slower pace and a deeper connection to community, land and food.

And indeed the joys of farming encompass all of these experiences. But yin and yang apply to farming, and the joys come with costs. "A deeper connection" implies a deeper intimacy, to the dark and difficult side as well as to the joyous side. Intimacy comes only with a deeper commitment and connection, and that means not turning away from the aspects that we were most sheltered from when we lived in town.

Our first cow, Pretty Girl, calved easily; she was an Angus, and it was a little bull calf. Neither animal was particularly tame, and we weren't able to get that close. Several months later, our first dairy cow, Ariba (top photo), calved. Again, it was an easy delivery; it was her fourth calf, and the little female, Shasta, was a beauty. Both mother and baby were very tame. We were in the barn stall when Ariba birthed; we bottle-fed Shasta for weeks.

Later, we had difficult births with our goats. Much smaller animals, the young mothers labored to push out their first babies, and the older animals struggled with multiple births. One doe delivered quintuplets.

These emergencies force new farmers into the role of midwife or obstetrician; let me tell you that a background in physics or engineering does NOT prepare you for veterinary duties. A neighbor, a customer and I worked hard for five hours on a very cold night to untangle and remove the five babies from the goat's womb; three survived.

Our neighbor, a big friendly Italian named Sal Eramo, came right over when I called. He held up a hand the size of a bear paw next to my slender wrist and said, "I can tell you what to do, but you're going to have to do this yourself, capiche?"

A year later Sal called and asked for Chrissie's small arms to help deliver lambs from a ewe who was having trouble.

A box of day-old baby chicks is the cutest thing in the world. A box of baby chicks that was on a cart not properly strapped into the mail service truck containing a dozen or so mashed, bruised and dismembered bodies is not.

Barn cat kittens, born in the chickens' nest boxes and partially-reared by hens, were the cutest things in the world. Mature cats preying upon a brooder full of day-old chicks as though it were an arcade game at a county fair, was a dreadful massacre to behold.



In fact, chickens open up a whole world of predator-prey relationships that we were blissfully ignorant of in town. We have learned to identify the predator by the calling card it leaves behind: owls peck a hole in the top of the chicken's skull; skunks eat just the head and gullet; cats eat all the internal organs and sometimes the flesh meats; raccoons drag their prey down to the creek where they can wash it in the water. Coyotes take the whole carcass, whether it's a chicken or a lamb, and leave not a trace behind.

Learning to identify who's taking the chickens is crucial for beginning farmers who are just learning how to have the stomach to fight back. 

As educated liberals who never owned guns before, we had a lot to learn, and had to make significant changes in our own world views. We also learned, as Joel Salatin rightly points out in his writings, that it's an interesting irony that the people most likely to buy our food and to appreciate the benefits to animal and man of having pasture-raised foods are in fact the people most likely to support and vote for legislation that makes it most difficult to fight the predators. (And that included us.)

Stay tuned for Part 2: A Cow Goes Missing and One Thing Leads To Another.

Tuesday, June 09, 2009

Truly Verde Enchiladas


Apologies to Al Gore, but reducing your carbon footprint is so last year. Anyone who's been even vaguely listening in the last few months is hearing the growing chorus of voices from the likes of Michael Pollan, Barbara Kingsolver and, most recently, New York Times columnist Mark Bittman about bringing green to the table. And they're not just talking parsley.

The chicken mixture with extra roasted tomatillos (at top in photo) for a future batch!

Even Monsanto is trying to (falsely) jump on the bandwagon with a new tagline that trumpets the giant agrichemical, GMO-promoting corporation as "committed to sustainable agriculture." Though I almost threw an (organically grown) tomato at the radio when I heard that on NPR's business show, Marketplace, yesterday. (Don't they vet those sponsor taglines for accuracy?)

But I digress. The point of this post is to share a recipe for chicken verde enchiladas that I stitched together, Frankenstein-like, from a recipe from my brother's friend Shauneen (about 75%), a recent batch of tomatillo salsa from Mark Bittman (15%) and my own messing around (10%, if that).

Assembled and ready to go in the oven.

And yes, nearly all of the ingredients are organically grown (though not necessary certified). The brilliant thing about Shauneen's recipe was that it called for a roasted deli chicken instead of a) roasting it just for this recipe, way too much trouble for me, and b) using leftovers, still a good idea but we often don't have enough remaining.

To make it Dave-safe, I used extra-sharp cheddar (a serious transgression, I know, but fake cheese is worse) and tofu sour cream (from Tofutti, my fave fake product) for garnish. Otherwise, like I said, totally green!

Chicken Verde Enchiladas
From a variety of sources (see above)

For the roasted tomatillo chile salsa:

1 lb. tomatillos, husked and rinsed
1 yellow onion, peeled, sliced and quartered
4 garlic cloves
2 ancho chiles, roasted, skins removed, stemmed and seeded
2 tsp. ground cumin
1 tsp. salt (plus more to taste)
1/2 c. chopped cilantro leaves
1 lime, juiced

For the enchiladas:
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
1/2 med. onion, diced
3 garlic cloves, chopped
1 1/2 tsp. ground cumin
1/4 c. all-purpose flour
2 c. chicken stock
1 roasted chicken (from the deli, about 3 pounds), boned, meat shredded
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
10 lg. (approx. 8" diam.) flour tortillas
1/2 lb. Monterey Jack cheese, shredded
2 c. sour cream
Chopped tomatoes and cilantro leaves, for garnish
Guacamole, optional

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. On a baking tray, roast tomatillos, quartered onion and garlic for 15 minutes. Transfer the roasted vegetables and any juices on the bottom of the tray to a food processor. Add the roasted chiles, cumin, salt, cilantro, and lime juice and pulse mixture until well combined but still a little chunky. Add more salt to taste.

Meanwhile heat the vegetable oil in a large, deep frying pan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until soft and caramelized, about 5 to 7 minutes. Add the garlic and cumin then cook for a further minute. Sprinkle on the flour and stir to ensure the flour doesn't burn, then very gradually add the chicken stock to make a veloute. Continue stirring over a low simmer until the flour cooks and the liquid thickens. Turn off the heat, add half of the roasted tomatillo chile salsa and fold in the shredded chicken meat. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Lower the temperature of the oven to 350° and begin assembling the dish. Take a 9" by 12" baking dish and smear the bottom with some of the reserved tomatillo salsa. Take the flour tortillas and coat each tortilla lightly with the reserved salsa mix. Put a scoop of the shredded chicken-enchilada mix on top of the tortilla followed by a sprinkle of the shredded cheese. Fold the tortilla over the filling and roll like a cigar to enclose it. Line up the tortillas in the baking dish and continue to do the same with all the tortillas. Finally pour over the remaining salsa, spread evenly and top with the remaining shredded cheese. Bake uncovered for about 30-45 minutes until bubbly and cracked on top. Garnish with cilantro and tomato.

Serve hot with sour cream and fresh guacamole, if desired. (Chipotle sauce also adds a nice smokiness.)

Livin' in the Blurbs: Summer Pursuits

Always dreamed of living on a little farm in the countryside, growing your own food and raising livestock but you just can't quite swing the logistics? Find out what three city-dwellers are doing to realize their dreams right in the middle of densely populated Portland. Slow Food Portland is sponsoring a family-paced, three-mile bike tour of three urban homesteads on June 28. Columbia Ecovillage will show off their cooperative farm, Glen Andresen will share his urban apiary and Harriet Fasenfest of Preserve will talk about householding and putting up food.

Details: Grow by Bike: An Urban Homesteading Bike Tour. Sunday, June 28, 9:30-noon; $5, tickets available online.

* * *

It's all-organic, all the time at the North American Organic Brewers Festival at Overlook Park the weekend of June 26 through 29. It's bigger and better than ever this year, with 42 breweries from all over the globe bringing (at last count) 78 beers to this festival celebrating the goodness that is organic beer. In its fifth year, the beers will cover the gamut from pilsner to porter, amber ale to Belgian wit with plenty of Northwest India Pale Ales thrown into the mix. Don't miss it!

Details: North American Organic Brewers Festival. June 26-28; noon-9 pm Fri.-Sat., noon-5 pm Sun.; free, with $6 for participation in beer tasting and $1 a ticket for samples. Overlook Park, 1301 N. Fremont St. at the intersection with Interstate Ave.

* * *

Gardening season has taken off at full speed, but you can still jump on the train with the great classes at Farmington Gardens in Beaverton. The instruction is geared to everyone from beginning gardeners to those with a few seasons under their belts, and they are totally free (though preregistration is encouraged), so check out the upcoming schedule:
  • July 18, 10 am: Creating a Children’s Garden with Kristien Forness, Landscape Designer
  • July 26, 1 pm: Succulent Container Gardens with Leah McDonald
  • August. 2, noon: Eating Seasonally from the Garden with Rose Marie Nichols McGee
  • August 15, 1 pm: Improving the Value of Your Home Through Landscaping with Vicki Burr and Ron Phillips
Details: Classes at Farmington Gardens. Free with preregistration. Farmington Gardens, 21815 SW Farmington Rd. Phone 503-649-4568.

Dairy Report: LeVan Speaks His Mind


Self-described Cheese Czarina Lisa Jacobs of Jacobs Creamery reminds us that being a farmers' market vendor is not all tea and crumpets. Remember, you can find her booth at the PSU, Hollywood, Milwaukie, Hillsdale, King, Eastbank and Lake Oswego farmers' markets.

This week LeVan du Fromage (similar to photo, above) and I had a real bonding moment. Like when you go through a catastrophic event with someone, we are a little more bonded together now after we got through our episode of being stuck on the side of the freeway Sunday night at 11:15.

In all fairness, he gave me warning on Saturday after the markets when the temperature gauge when through the roof and steam was streaming from the engine. I stopped where I was and called my Dad [Michael Jacobs of The Smokery].

"Dad, quick! I need two gallons of water!"

"Lisa, its OK, I already made some Gatorade and you can have some when you get here."

"Dad, I'm stuck behind Fred Meyer! I need water for LeVan...steam is coming out of the engine and green stuff is peeing out the front end!" (It appeared that LeVan doesn't like the hot weather, and chose this particular time to declare he had a hole.)

Then Sunday night as I was heading home after six markets and the final unload, sort, count and cheese-making I was not as good-humored when the incident happened again, seeing as my Dad was now in Vegas, my ex-boyfriends were in another state and Peter was all the way back in White Salmon. And unfortunately I can't tilt my cab forward to get to the radiator myself.

So I called the police with the idea that they would help, at least blocking traffic from hitting me and LeVan and secretly thinking that I could get them to help me tilt the cab. Officer Bailey was an "I follow the book" kind of officer (go figure) and needed a lot more cajoling than I initially thought. He wanted to call AAA and I wanted to get my cab tilted so I could add water and get home. Finally I explained that AAA doesn't cover box vans, so I won.

As it happens he was more frightened of the engine than I was, but I told him what to do and he listened. So thanks to Officer Bailey and my 5-gallon hand washing station, I had enough water to get me home. The next day LeVan went to the doctor and seems to be much better after having a new heater core installed.

Monday, June 08, 2009

Time to Get Cheesy!



Tami Parr just posted a notice on her Pacific NW Cheese Project that it's time for the annual Tillamook Macaroni and Cheese Recipe Contest. Note the deadline is Monday, August 17th, though mail entries must be postmarked by August 12th. For all the info, check the contest website. Thanks, Tami!

Sunday, June 07, 2009

CAVA Closing Tonight


Our friend Amy Ruppel just sent an e-mail letting us know that tonight is the last night to go in and get CAVA's amazing mushroom bruschetta, to sit in the warm glow of the dining room with so many other eastsiders and enjoy a place that exuded that certain Portland charm, with none of the pretense, the trying-too-hard-to-be-hip attitude found at so many other places.

In her message, Amy outlines the reasons for the closure:

"Blame it on the 'economic crisis,' or the location, or what have you.... the business is just not pulling in what it needs/used to, and the costs heavily outweigh the intake. We've stayed open as long as we could, digging deep into our own pockets to try to keep it all running, but to no avail.

"It's sad, for last night we actually had a good amount of folks come in. And they loved it. And we know people love it, and they (and us) will be very upset about this closure. It makes me ill to think about all the work and love we put into that place, only to have it fade away and become another statistic.

"I wish I had a million dollars, or an investor in these crazy times, to keep it all afloat and keep everyone happily fed, and the staff employed. But in the end, we need to save CAVA from delving deeper into debt."

We'll miss you and the staff that made it such a special place, Amy.

Details: Cava Tavern, 5339 SE Foster at 53rd. Phone 503-206-8615

Friday, June 05, 2009

An Even Dozen


WARNING: CUTENESS ALERT!!!
ANYONE SUSCEPTIBLE TO ATTACKS OF PUPPY-ITIS WHEN CONFRONTED WITH EXTREME CUTENESS, PLEASE AVERT YOUR EYES!



A dozen eggs, no problem. A dozen donuts, OK. Even a dozen guests at a dinner party, though it would be a stretch. But a dozen puppies? Out of one not-so-big Corgi? That I had to see.

And frankly, I would have gone to see them anyway, since the breeder is a friend and her dog (dog people call them "bitches" in a non-judgmental way, but I've never become accustomed to that usage), Crystal, is a lovely merle girl, always full of wiggles and kisses.

So, for the puppy lovers among you, enjoy. These little guys are a whole six days old. And for the record, there are two merles and ten black-and-white puppies, with four girls and eight boys. Be assured more pictures will be forthcoming.


END OF ALERT.
WE NOW RETURN YOU TO YOUR REGULARLY SCHEDULED BLOG.

Thursday, June 04, 2009

David Anderson's New Baby


Though this isn't the kind of blog where you come to read the latest gossip about Portland's food scene, there's been an exciting development for someone I've got a huge amount of respect and admiration for. David Anderson, the chef de cuisine at Vindalho, has decided to leave the restaurant he helped craft into the city's go-to spot for great Indian-inspired cuisine.

A new opportunity presented itself when he met former Nike exec Rudy Chapa and his wife, attorney Patricia Eiting, dedicated SE Portland residents who'd just purchased the much-beloved Genoa with the intention of reopening it. Anderson, just past his 30th birthday, had ideas he'd wanted to put into practice and impressed the couple with his experience and drive.

The magic happened, Anderson gave his notice at Vindalho and is currently on board as executive chef and general manager with an equity stake in the business. The plan is to reopen Genoa in November along with a second concept, an Italian-style enoteca/bar, in the space next door. We can only wish him the best, and look forward to toasting his success!

Wednesday, June 03, 2009

Musical Interlude


Our friend Bob makes the coolest posters for gigs with his band, Blutonic. Had to share!

Cabbage Fit for a King


I've been revisiting my love of coleslaw lately, so when I read this recipe from Jim Dixon of RealGoodFood and then saw, to my amazement, that he included the addictively delicious bread and butter jalapeños made by Barb and Dave Barber, I just had to tell you about it.

I was making a batch of my semi-creamy coleslaw last week, and there in the refrigerator was a container of the incredibly tasty bread and butter jalapenos from Picklopolis at the Portland Farmers Market at PSU. Mashup ensues:

Semi-Spicy, Semi-Creamy Coleslaw

Dissolve about a tablespoon of sugar and good pinch of sea salt (kosher salt also works) in a half cup or so of Katz Gravenstein Apple Cider vinegar. Add a cup or so of extra virgin olive oil and stir well.

Chop a head of green cabbage and add to dressing. Drain the brine from about a cup of bread and butter jalapenos into the slaw, then chop the jalapenos and add them. Stir in a couple of dollops of mayo, more or less, depending on how creamy you like your slaw.

Tuesday, June 02, 2009

Sunriver Sojourn


Like Blanche DuBois, we have been fortunate to experience the beneficence of strangers as well as the charitable acts of friends and family. This last weekend was a case in point, when our friends K&J invited us to join them for the weekend at a condo they'd rented at Sunriver, the 3,300-acre development along the Deschutes River just south of Bend.

The river at the marina.

I'd heard good things about it from friends who'd gone, but had never actually set foot on the property. And I have to admit a certain prejudice against gated communities full of SUVs, pristine swimming pools and golf courses (three plus one nine-hole "links" course). But a free weekend away from home with friends and the guarantee of great food and drink, plus a blogging opportunity? We couldn't say "Yes, please!" fast enough.

A hike along the river with a view of the lava beds.

Anyone who's been to Central Oregon knows there is virtually an unlimited number of outdoor activities available, from hiking, biking and swimming to skiing, camping, horsebackriding and boating. And, aside from camping and skiing, almost all of those activities are available without leaving the Sunriver property. With miles of bike and walking paths, many through undeveloped open land, it was pretty stunning, even for a skeptic like me.

Serious steakage.

Our first day, after a walk on the paved paths down to the marina through pastoral fields dotted with horses grazing on lush grass, we came back and launched into a round of Dave's cocktails before a dinner of grilled steaks, market asparagus and rhubarb crisp. (See what I mean about the food and drinks with this crowd?) A dip in the hot tub (and no, no nudity, thanks!) and we were out like lights when we finally hit the sheets.

What else? Beer!

The next day involved a spectacular 4-mile hike along the Deschutes (pron. duh-SHOOTS) and the lava beds surrounding the Newberry Volcanic Monument. On the way back we stopped in Bend for lunch and brews on the deck overlooking the river at Bend Brewing, wondering why more pubs in Portland don't have food that good.

By the time we made a long farewell bike tour around the property on our last morning, admiring the wildlife and beauty of this stunningly designed property, we'd grown to appreciate it, even thinking that there might just be another trip here in our future.

Great Grain


With the weather creeping toward summerlike, I'm thinking more about cool salads and picnics in a park, not to mention easy but impressive side dishes I can take to potluck dinners. This recipe for farro salad fits all those categories, and is perfect for any vegetarians in the crowd. And yes, I've posted this recipe before, but it's just so good I have to share it again.

Farro & Pecorino Salad
From Luan Schooler

1 c. whole grain Farro
Salted water
4 oz. good aged pecorino, cut into little cubes
1 c. halved cherry tomatoes
1/4 c. oil-cured olives, pitted & chopped roughly
A handful of basil leaves
6 tablespoons (more or less) of good, full flavored olive oil
Salt and fresh cracked pepper to taste

Cook the farro in the salted water at a bare simmer until just tender. Drain well and spread on a baking sheet to cool (or, if you're in a hurry, run under cold water and drain thoroughly). Gently combine the farro, cheese, tomatoes and olives. Drizzle with olive oil—start with about 4 tablespoons, let it sit a few minutes, taste and add some more if it seems dry. Tear basil leaves and fold into salad, then season with salt and pepper to taste.

Friday, May 29, 2009

In Season NW: Market Dinner for the In-Laws


Ann Forsthoefel, market manager of the Portland Farmers' Market, had her in-laws over for dinner the other night and, as you might expect, all the fixin's came from the tables of her favorite vendors. If you have a favorite menu or farmers' market dish, leave a comment and we'll compile a list!

Dinner for the In-Laws

Appetizer
Valentine cheese from Ancient Heritage Dairy
Assorted pickles, bean carrots from Picklopolis
Paté from Chop

Salad
Spring Mix from Spring Hill Farms topped with:
- Sliced pear from Draper Girls
- Caramelized Leek from Groundworks
- Feta cheese from Dee Creek
- Hazelnuts from Freddy Guys filberts

Pasta Two Ways
Rosemary infused linguine noodles from Nona Noodles topped with:
- Buffalo Italian sausage (Pine Mountain Ranch) in a tomato sauce (from my 2008 tomato harvest)
- Asparagus (Gala Farms) and Shitake Mushroom (Springwater Farms) in a cream sauce (cream from Jacobs Creamery)

Dessert
Blueberry Crisp made with my blueberries from last year.

Wine
Twist Wine (sold at the market)

Illustration from The Washington Post

The Joy of Gardening?


For gardeners, the mixed blessing of spring is the resurgence of life in our beloved gardens with the concomitant surge of growth in the plants we despise. My friend Denise reflects on her battle with the latter in this excerpt from her most excellent blog, A Year in the Slow Lane.

Again I stand, supported heavily by the shovel as the blood rushes back to my feet and a blackout moment passes. The childish laughter from the neighbor's yard has turned to squabbling as I unearth another batch of noxious weed bulbs and encounter a hard root that refuses to budge. I tug and see the razor sharp blackberry bramble across the yard rattle. I hack away and manage to break the root in half. Next year it will undoubtedly return at twice the size and strength. A bleeding finger and bafflement as to where the bramble originated temporarily take the focus off my throbbing back and tingling feet.

Giving up on the digging, I move to the less perilous task of pulling knee-high grass out of what used to be a planting bed. The roots rip satisfyingly easily out of the damp ground, though I’m feeling distinctly resentful at how well the grass thrives here in comparison to our bald, brown patch of “lawn”—much like the toxic blue flowers that have squeezed out my brother’s carefully planted daisies, dahlias and columbine. I ponder the perversion of weeds. So like humans to elevate anything labor intensive to that which is desirable. Tomatoes are Divas (if pampered correctly, they’ll repay you with transcendence), dandelions the Everyman. And when the rosemary goes ballistic and takes over the herb bed and needs to be hacked back with a saw resulting in an unsightly mess? Brittany Spears. Or LiLo…take your pick.

I go back to digging to give my knees a break. I’m pretty sure I can hear my lower back creak as I stand. Done with the bugs, the mounting hysteria from next door and my audible groans, our dog Koko the traitor moves inside. I picture the grass clippings and mud clumps she’s tracking through the house and onto the couch. I wonder if she’s mastered the remote and found the America’s Next Top Model marathon on cable.

Another shovelful of tops only, no bulbs. The earthworm carnage is getting critical (and no, cutting a worm in half doesn’t create two worms). My karma quotient is falling. The ranting in my head is getting shrill….or is it the child’s tantrum coming from over the fence? My back is officially in pain, I have a headache, it’s hot, I’m bleeding. I’ve now been gardening for 15 minutes and I’m completely over it. The space beyond the back door is once again officially dead to me. In a couple of years perhaps, lulled by the pretty pictures in Sunset Magazine and the delighted successes of friends, I may venture back out. But for now, I see it clearly.

If the kitchen is God’s workshop, the yard is the devil’s playground.

Thursday, May 28, 2009

My Latest Love Affair


In any long marriage there are ups and downs, times of passion and times when Dave probably thinks, "What the heck am I doing with this person?" I've done the same thing with food, from what's known in our family as my Velveeta Period in grade school through my decades-long affair with pesto (I blame the garlic).

Several years ago the attraction waned and I moved on to other fascinations with poached eggs and stuffed pork, but recently a piece by Melissa Clark in the New York Times piqued my interest in looking up my old flame.

The reason? It had undergone some cosmetic surgery and I was finding its new look curiously fetching. The basil had been replaced with pea shoots, and after a brief dalliance with those curly greens last spring, I've been flirting with them a lot more this spring.

So when I saw some shoots waving their fronds at me from a table at the farmers' market, I brought them home and immediately looked up the recipe. A whirl in the processor, a little heat, and this new affair was off to a promising start.

Pasta with Pea Shoot Pesto
Adapted from The New York Times

For the pesto:
1/4 c. pine nuts
3 c. pea shoots
1/2 c. fresh cilantro leaves
2 cloves garlic, chopped
3/4 tsp. kosher salt
1/3 c. extra virgin olive oil
1/4 c. grated Parmesan

For the pasta:
1 lb. penne (or your favorite shape)
1 Tbsp. olive oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 c. pea shoots
1 6-oz. can albacore tuna
Zest of 1 lemon
Salt and pepper to taste
Parmesan for sprinkling

Put pine nuts, pea shoots, cilantro and garlic in processor. With processor running, drizzle in olive oil to make a paste. Pour pesto into mixing bowl and stir in parmesan.

Bring pot of water to boil and add pasta. Cook till al dente. While pasta cooks, heat olive oil in saute pan and add garlic. Saute briefly and add pea shoots, cooking till just wilted. Add tuna and stir to warm. Remove from heat and stir in lemon zest. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Drain pasta and put in serving bowl. Add pesto and stir to coat (you may not need all of it). Top with pea shoot mixture and sprinkle with parmesan.

Wednesday, May 27, 2009

The Garden, Week 6: First Harvest


The picture aboves says it all. Beautiful long red French ladyfinger radishes (dynamite in a bean salad), arugula and greens that were ideal alongside a pork leg Dave smoked. I'm replanting new radishes as I pull them out, hoping there's time for another crop, and the tomatoes are starting to flower in their little red teepees. And the weather? Spectacular for the rest of the week.

Grow, little plants, grow!

Commingling at Mingo


Like traveling to a place I've never been before, a new restaurant entices me with its siren song of adventure. The promise of new sights, new sounds, new tastes wiggles its hips, bats its eyelashes and beckons me to give it a try. Add to that the thrill of risk. Will it end up being a botoxed, liposuctioned, silicon-injected fake, full of flabby frippery and inflated prices? Or an intriguing journey full of never-before-seen vistas and strange, vibrant flavors?

The scene at Bar Mingo.

Here in Portland there's no shortage of opportunity, considering that dining establishments are opening up with startling regularity even in these lean times. So many, in fact, that longtime favorites are overlooked to dash after the latest cutie on the block. So when my friend Kim recently suggested meeting at Caffe Mingo on a relatively quiet stretch of NW 21st, my first thought was, "Oh yeah, Mingo! I've been meaning to get back there for awhile now."

Market asparagus with red onion and egg.

Putting our name on the list for a seat at the bar, next to the chef's table the best seats in the house, we went next door for a drink and a snack at the relatively new Bar Mingo. Both places have a wall of windows looking out onto the street, though the cafe has discreet drapery that adds a sense of privacy while not obscuring the view.

The view from the bar at Caffe Mingo.

We ordered plate of perfectly prepared asparagus topped with sauteed red onions and a crumbled hard-boiled egg to accompany our drinks and the complimentary bowl of chips. Very soon we were called next door to be seated at the aforementioned bar with a perfect view back into the kitchen. With very reasonably priced glasses of an Italian red in front of us, we decided to share several plates starting with bacon wrapped scallops and a mix of seasonal greens (top photo). To say this was good is an understatement, since the scallops were lusciously moist and the thinly sliced, lean bacon that wrapped them accented rather than overwhelmed their flavor.

Those killer gnocchi.

When I saw potato gnocchi on the list of specials I had to order them, though the sauce they came with seemed like it might be too heavy and, if they were a decent version, I wanted to experience them prepared as simply as possible. Now, in a lot of places, asking for a different preparation of a special item might be akin to asking for the chef to juggle in the nude while riding a unicycle. But what I love about this place is that our waiter simply suggested a butter and sage preparation instead as if it was no big deal.

Panna cotta to die for.

And when they came out they were all I'd hoped for. Soft and lightly pillowy, briefly tossed in sage-infused butter and sprinkled with coarse salt and fresh-ground pepper, these were the best gnocchi I'd had since the ones made by Sabrina Tinsley of Seattle's Osteria la Spiga when I interviewed her for NW Palate magazine.

At that point we were ready for dessert, and it was seeing our waiter Josh's eyes roll back in his head while describing the panna cotta with black cherries that made the decision for us. Not only gorgeous to look at, the creamy, lightly flavored custard was the ideal foil for the cherries' dark richness, making it almost a tragedy to get to the last spoonful.

It just reminds me that sometimes it's better to occasionally go backwards than always charging forward to the (purportedly) next great thing.

Details: Caffe Mingo, 807 NW 21st Ave. Phone 503-226-4646.

Tuesday, May 26, 2009

A New Era Begins


Last September I wrote that after decades of owning Volvos, we were considering leaving the fold and downsizing to a smaller car. After considering everything from Corollas to Insights, from hybrids to traditional engines, and even after Dave made a spreadsheet with a complicated algorithm that involved mileage, cost of the vehicle, cost of gas and the optimum number of Corgis (in our case, two), among other things, the one that kept coming to the top was the Mini, and specifically the Clubman.

And today was the day we marched into the dealer, put down our money and ordered one. Bright red, with a black roof. It should be here by August, so to celebrate what we're calling "The Great Ordering" we raised a glass of Christian's finest at HUB to our first new car ever. I say it's about time.

Flower Bed


Friends Judy and Tom sent the picture above and the description below. Wish I'd been there!

This was in the side yard of the cow camp where we camped for the last three days. Still too cold up there to have any flowers, but within a month, I'm sure the wife of the cowboss will have some flowers here.

The place is called Little Fish Lake Ranch. It's not a ranch in the sense that someone lives there the year round. In a couple of weeks they will have pushed the cattle up to this point and beyond, where they will stay until roundup in the fall. Tom's father and several of his uncles worked for an outfit that owned this place back in 1946. Tom was two years old when they lived there for a few months at that time. They moved with the cattle from one camp to another.

We were about 40 miles east of Tonopah, Nevada, and then drove on a dirt road north for 42 miles to the site. It is stunning country...if you like the desert.

Monday, May 25, 2009

Curious About Quinoa


Believe it or not, the cookbook that started me on my quest to break out of my starch rut (Potatoes, rice or pasta?) was written by some nutty group that believed that life on earth began with vacationing extraterrestrials. A gift from a well-intentioned friend, it was, as I recall, mostly if not completely vegetarian, and had some great recipes for using whole grains.

What grains had to do with our intergalactic origins I never quite figured out and the book has long since been purged from our shelves, but I was reminded of it the other day when I had a warm quinoa salad that our neighbor Susana had made.

Originally grown by the Incas, uncooked quinoa (pron. KEEN-wah) looks like tiny brick-red seeds that, after washing and cooking, have a faintly nutty flavor with a bit of crunch. It seems to combine especially well with vegetables and could be served warm or cold, and was perfect for an early summer backyard picnic. And no, no UFOs were sighted.

Quinoa, Fennel and Cherry Tomato Salad

1 c. quinoa, rinsed and drained
1 bulb fennel, halved, trimmed and sliced
1 red onion, chopped fine
1 pt. cherry tomatoes, halved
Several chive stems and flowers for garnish
1 c. house vinaigrette

Bring 2 cups water to boil, add quinoa and reduce heat to bare simmer, cooking until all the water is absorbed. Rinse in cold water and drain to stop cooking. Place in mixing bowl and add other ingredients, pouring in the vinaigrette and stir to combine. Chill or serve at room temperature.

Saturday, May 23, 2009

Gracious Goodness


When I was arranging to have breakfast with my friend Mary Fishback of Portland's newest (and bluest) foodie landmark, the Waffle Window, there was only one place to go. And that was Gracie's in the Hotel Deluxe, formerly known as the dining room of the Mallory Hotel.

Why not Toast, or the Tin Shed, you ask? Because of its quiet elegance, the same qualities I admire in Ms. Fishback, and also because of its marble-topped tables with restrained table settings, thick drapery on the windows and deliciously strong coffee in white ceramic cups.

The corned beef hash.

The other reason was more self-serving, and that was to have the bread pudding that I'd sampled on my last visit, a lusciously decadent version that was crisped and warm and served with a small pile of bananas and pecans, all dusted with a gentle sprinkling of powdered sugar. There was also a small pot of maple syrup on the side, but it wasn't necessary to make this crunchy-on-the-outside, soft-in-the-middle bit of heaven a total treat.

Mary opted for heartier fare, a hash of variously colored heirloom potatoes with corned beef, topped with two of the most perfectly poached eggs I'd ever seen. The effect of sitting and sipping our coffee in this sumptuous and calm expanse, the morning's sunshine pouring in the windows, was the opposite of most clanky, bright and jarring breakfast places. And one I'll be going back to soon.

Details: Gracie's in the Hotel Deluxe, 729 SW 15th Ave. Phone 503-219-2094.

Thursday, May 21, 2009

It's Showtime!


Have you ever seen exhausted-looking pasta? Depressed macaroni and cheese? I saw them both and more at the recent DPI Western Division Food Show at the Convention Center. Luan Schooler of Foster & Dobbs had invited me to join her, promising we'd be in and out before I lost my way among the freeze-dried packages and vacuum-packed snacks.

Her one warning from her vast prior experience? Don't eat anything unless you're sure you want it. Heeding that sage advice, I found there were beacons of light amid the depressing displays of baked goods that never grow old, cupcakes frosted like watermelons and something called InnovAsian Cuisine that describes itself as "a proponent of frozen Asian component meals, appetizers and side dishes." (Component meals? Really?)

Bright spots like Allison Hooper of Vermont Butter & Cheese Company, whose Coupole is a dense yet creamy cheese with a bright goat tang. And Amy Turnbull and Stephen Hueffed of Willapa Hills Farmstead Cheese whom I'd met last September at the Provvista Open House when their creamery was just getting started and who are now well on their way to cheese greatness.

Then there was Alberto Solis (right) of Fermin, who was more than happy to carve off generous slices from the leg of Iberico de Bellota in its custom engineered holder with the solid granite base. After all, he said, for what people pay for this very special ham (around $100 a pound) it deserves a very special holder, no? (Gear-heads please note: It can rotate back and forth as well as around.)

And because its fat has many of the same beneficial health qualities that are attributed to good olive oil, he said, people in Spain call it an olive tree with legs. I just kept nodding and snatching slices out of his hand as long as he would carve them.

After our two hours in the land of cheese-on-a-stick and microwavable samosas, it was good to adjourn to Peet's for a well-deserved coffee and some fresh spring air and sunshine. It was not a place I'd want to spend much time in, and thankfully don't have to.

Tuesday, May 19, 2009

The Garden, Week 5: Big Developments


Our best ideas, at least around here, often get put on what we not-so-jokingly refer to as the "Mañana Plan." That is, it's something we'd genuinely like get done but because of lack of funds or bad timing or just plain old laziness, we don't quite work up the wherewithall to accomplish.

At first it seemed like the whole tree removal, hedge destruction and planting bed project could end up in the pile of good intentions gone awry, and it made me especially nervous to commit to it in print. But maybe the specter of having to face the humiliation of questions ("How'd that tree project come out?") or, worse yet, jokes ("Remember that tree project you wrote about?") galvanized us into action.

So Saturday bright and early found Dave driving out to Home Depot in his trusty truck, returning with a rented rototiller which he diligently used, along with a pickax and ax, to turn the patch of grass and a tangle of hidden tree roots into a new planting bed. Then it was my turn, while he had a well-deserved hot-bath-with-a-beer-back to soothe his sore muscles, to plant the tomatoes and peppers I'd purchased from the tremendous selection at Garden Fever.

The five tomatoes, Green Zebra, Early Girl, Cherokee Purple, Sungold and the wild card, a French Carmello, are now happily ensconced in their walls of water (above, left) with some of Dr. Kobos' Magic Dirt to help them along. The peppers I chose were two Jimmy Nardello's that I'd become addicted to last summer after finding them at the Gathering Together Farm booth at the Hillsdale market, and then two anchos, a pasilla, a jalapeno and a paprika.

The raised beds continue to thrive (right, above), and it's almost time to start harvesting the first chard, arugula and radishes. So exciting!

In Season NW: Mid-May Markets


It was a quadruple header over the weekend with four markets to report on, and the summer temps and clear blue skies brought out near-record crowds for the middle of May.

Portland Farmers' Market: Rhubarb, fiddleheads, sea beans and spring onions were practically spilling into the aisles, but the big event today was a tour of the market's prepared food vendors with manager Ann Forsthoeful. Tastebud head honcho Mark Doxtader was chopping up the spring onions he'd bought that morning from the vendor across the aisle. He already had a big pan cooking in the brick oven, its smoke summoning early shoppers for a slice of breakfast pizza. The big guys at Northwest Heritage Pork (left) were fortifying themselves with plate-sized pancakes and rashers of bacon in anticipation of the crowds to come, and Ann and I got to sample their jaw-droppingly good (and loaded) carnitas tacos. Dave and Barb Barber's Picklopolis stopped us in our tracks with containers of crunchy pickled asparagus spears and bread-and-butter jalapenos glinting in the sunlight alongside giant jars of their signature sauerkraut and huge dill pickles. "People call them walking-around pickles," Dave noted, adding that customers often get some to take home and then one to walk around and munch on while they shop.
Saturdays from 8:30 am-2 pm at Portland State University in the South Park Blocks between SW Harrison and Montgomery.

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Beaverton Farmers' Market: The Oregonian's Kim Pokorny was just getting started on her presentation about growing vegetables in the Northwest, so I stopped and learned that with a little lime and bone meal in the hole that you've dug for your tomatoes will reap enormous rewards later in the season, and that snapping off the lower leaves and planting the tomato with only the top of the plant sticking out of the soil will cause roots to emerge from the buried stem, feed the plant. Filing away that information for later, I wandered through this incredible market, marveling at the aisles and aisles of seasonal produce that dwarfs even the PSU market for volume. My favorite produce stand, Spring Hill Organic Farm, had its usual stunning display of sorrel (photo, top), spring onions, vibrant heads of lettuce and purple flower buds popping from large bundles of chives, and the smell of fresh corn tortillas wafting from Canby Asparagus Farm made me almost wish I hadn't had that giant taco earlier.
Saturdays from 8 am-1:30 pm on SW Hall Blvd between 3rd and 5th Sts. in downtown Beaverton.

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Hillsdale Farmers' Market: At Jacobs Creamery, new GSNW contributor Lisa Jacobs was joking with her dad, Michael (right), who was handing out samples of his home-smoked salmon at The Smokery booth next door. Asked how he got into the business of smoking fish, Michael said his kids gave him a smoker one year and (are you listening, Dave?), after trying several recipes that produced inedibly dry or salty fish, he developed his own recipe that gave him the rich flavor and texture he remembered from his childhood in Ireland. From there it was only a matter of time before he was selling at the farmers' markets that were popping up around town. And Ken Harry of Chanka's Catering, with his lilting Caribbean accent, said that he began selling at the market because he just wanted to make food for his neighbors. He said that some people were initially cautious about trying it, but the mild, tropical flavors of the shrimp and chicken he features have made him a market favorite, and the habanero chile sauce he has in a little jar on the side can spike up the heat substantially.

Sundays from 10 am-2 pm at SW Capitol Hwy. and Sunset Blvd. in the Wilson High School parking lot.


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King Market: Nancy Chandler (left), artisan cheesemaker and fixture at several area markets, was doing a land office business in her signature chevre at her Alsea Acres table. She said she and the other vendors were floored by the overwhelmingly enthusiastic neighborhood response to this new market. Having started out in the business with two goats that a friend had given her son for a 4-H project, she now has a full line of plain and flavored chevre cheeses, including her newest, the cleverly named "Party in a Jar." Virgin olive oil, greek olives, sun-dried tomatoes, roasted red peppers, pine nuts, roasted garlic, rosemary and basil combine with a chunk of fresh chevre to make a perfect appetizer or hostess gift, she said, and it will last for several weeks in the fridge if you can keep away from it for that long. And it was all Kir Jensen could do to keep up with the stream of customers at Two Tarts Bakery who were clamoring for the diminishing stock of bite-sized cookies and bars.
Sundays from 10 am-2 pm on NE 7th at Wygant between NE Alberta and Prescott Sts.