A la Cart: Heavens to Burgatroyd!

I loved the xiao long bao at the now-defunct Asian Station food cart. And when I had Cliff Allen's porchetta at his then brand spanking new People's Pig, the skies opened and angels sang. So when I heard that Kevin Sandri, who wooed and won me with his Jersey-goes-left coast Garden State cart, had opened a new cart called Burgatroyd, I had to check it out.

The burger at Burgatroyd.

With both carts in a pod called Mississippi Marketplace on the corner of North Mississippi and Skidmore next to the Prost! bierstube, he's putting out some of the best cart grub in the city. Burgatroyd is a fiendishly simple concept: take a healthy patty of really good burg, slap it on a substantial brioche bun and let people choose from a vast list of condiments.

Sauces? They've got 'em!

Calabrian chile aioli? How about caramelized onions? Or maybe a pickled gardiniere is more your speed. Mushrooms, a pineapple slice, an egg, pancetta and various cheeses are all there, too, just waiting for you to create your own monster-burger for a few extra dimes. Plus as much sauce as you can take, including some of David Barber's incendiary Picklopolis habanero and jalapeno sauces.

Plus he's figured out that with their burgers, people like a little libation that can be had, and even consumed with your food, at the pub next door. Like I said, the guy is fiendishly clever.

Details: Burgatroyd, 4233 N Mississippi at Skidmore. 503-962-9265.

The Inveterate Griller

You gotta love the all-weather grillers who live in the rainy Northwest. Dave's been out in rain, sleet and snow working his beloved Weber, and no showery Memorial Day is going to keep him inside, and he proved it by smoking a 9-lb. brisket (known as "The Big-Ass Brisket") yesterday. Contributor Jim Dixon of RealGoodFood is a brother-in-barbecue, and sends the following as proof.

Given our wetter than usual weather, you may have forgone the traditional holiday weekend kickoff of the outdoor cooking season. I’ve stoked the Weber a few times in the last month, and I first cooked the pork patties below over charcoal. But they do just fine in a skillet on the stove or even as porky meatballs in the oven.

Pork and Cabbage Patties

I can’t bring myself to call these pork “burgers,” even after Bittman’s story in the NYT about other-than-beef hamburgers. If I cook them flat, they’re patties; round, I call them balls.

For a pound of ground pork, finely chop enough green cabbage to make about a cup. Chop half a medium onion equally fine. Combine the diced vegetables with the pork, add about a tablespoon of fish sauce, and, if you like a little heat, a spritz of sriracha. Add an egg and about a half cup of bread crumbs; mix with your hands. The mixture should hold together, but if it seems wet add more bread crumbs.

Form into patties and grill or pan fry. Or make into meatballs slightly large than golf balls, arrange on a baking sheet, and cook at 350° for about 20 minutes.

And yes, the photo above is on a (gasp) gas grill. Looking for a better one.

Going Old School

Old school. Clubby. The kind of place where the bartenders know that a proper martini is made with gin and perhaps a whisper of vermouth, where umbrellas are in stands by the door, not put in the drinks. And the only fruit purée in evidence comes on the desserts.

Every city has them. Tadich Grill and Sam's Grill in San Francisco, and Jack's in Redding are a few that we've wandered into. Portland has Jake's and Huber's, the former now owned by the McCormick and Schmick's chain and a mere shadow of its former self, the latter so old my grandfather used to go there in the early part of the 20th century when he would bring his cattle to market from Eastern Oregon.

Then there are the newer places that have an instant old-school feel, like the bar at Higgins, popular with a certain class of upper-crust businessmen and lawyers feeling the need for a drink after a day at the office and before heading home to their families (with likely another drink to dampen the din).

And no wonder these guys like this place…it feels like a library or private club, the barmen (and women) in white shirts and ties taking your drink order almost before you settle into your seat at the bar. Its draft list is a well-curated selection of Northwest microbrews with a smattering of Europeans, backed by an impressive list of bottles from all over the globe.

The food I've had there on two separate trips was good if not great. The burger is of the less-is-more variety, with a medium-sized, medium-cooked burger on a nice bun with trimmings on the side. It's considered one of the better burgers in town along with those from Paley's Place and Castagna Café, but I had one that was just as good for four bucks less at Kevin Sandri's Garden State cart.

The house-made charcuterie board (above left) is very good, with a wide selection of owner Greg Higgins' best, more than twice the amount of meat you'd get for about the same price anyplace else in town. The bucatini pasta with nettle pesto and walnuts (above right) sounded good but would have benefited from less cooking on the pasta side and more zip in the sauce.

What it comes down to is that for a place to meet friends for drinks downtown, you can't go wrong here. Especially when you're in the mood for some schoolin' in old school.

Details: Higgins Bar, 1239 SW Broadway. 503-222-9070.

Love Those Lamburgers

The first time I had a burger made with lamb, prepared by my brother, a 'cue-meister of the first degree, it was like I'd been living in a forest and had never noticed the trees. If I was Homer Simpson, I would have slapped my forehead and said, "D'oh!" A light went on, I woke as if from a dream...use whatever hokey phrase you want, but I couldn't believe I'd never had one before.

Step 1: Form 1/4 of burger mix into two patties and top one with cheese.

What really got me was how simple they were to make. All it takes is ground lamb, some chopped garlic and herbs and, to take it to the level of celestial, all that's required is a slice of cheese inserted in the center. Throw them on the grill and you've got one of the most flavorful, delicious sandwiches the world has ever seen.

Step 2: Slap "blank" patty on top and seal edges, then get 'em on the grill!

Oh, and it also helps to have small ciabatta rolls (way better than hamburger buns) crisped on the grill, fresh-from-the-garden tomatoes and our favorite Kosher dills from Bubbies. It's dinner in your hand!

GoodStuffNW Lamburgers

Makes 4 burgers

2 lbs. ground lamb
1/2 c. pitted, chopped, oil-cured black olives
2 tsp. oregano
1 Tbsp. olive oil
1/4 c. bread crumbs or crushed water crackers
4 slices cheese (feta or cheddar work fabulously)
4 ciabatta rolls, halved lengthwise
Fixin's

Mix lamb, olives, oregano, olive oil and bread crumbs in mixing bowl till well-combined (mixing with your hands works best). Separate into fourths, then take each portion and form into two thin patties. Lay cheese slice in middle of one patty, slap the other patty on top and seal the edges. Repeat for other three patties.

Grill over hot coals, turning once, for four minutes on each side. Brown rolls on grill, insert burgers and apply whatever fixin's you prefer.