Spring Lamb Means Get Out the Braising Pot!

We had a writer friend from San Francisco visiting for the weekend, and while we'd made plans to go out for dinner Saturday night—note of thanks to Nancy and Randy at Bar Avignon for a fabulous evening—his flight wasn't getting in until late Friday evening, so I volunteered (make that begged) to make dinner that night. Fortunately for us he's an ominivore, so my suggestion of braised lamb shanks was more than acceptable.

Jeff makes a new friend in Oregon.

The original version of this braised dish was created for a big ol' lamb shoulder by my friend Michel, but there was no reason it couldn't be adapted for lamb shanks, too. It's been known among our circle for being the lamb recipe that converts lamb-haters to lamb-lovers—you know who you are, so don't make me name names—and I've heard reliable reports that it's successfully converted others to the ranks of the lamb-loving, as well.

The lamb itself makes a difference, of course, the fresher and more local the better, and there are several farms in the area that raised sheep on pasture, which are your best bets for good meat of any kind. (See the Oregon Pasture Network Product Guide to find a farmer near you.) But it's my belief that the unusual combination of spices like cardamom and cumin and poblano and red peppers takes it to another level entirely. The lamb can definitely stand up to the strong flavors they impart, and the aroma while its cooking is intoxicating, whetting everyone's appetites in advance of the meal.

Fall-off-the-bone tender, I've served it with polenta made from the coarsely ground Amish Butter corn from Ayers Creek Farm, but this time I decided to try pairing it with the farm's parched green wheat (formerly known as frikeh) simmered until it was tender then sautéed with onions, garlic and carrots. Turned out to be a great idea, since the smoky flavor of the grain complemented the lamb and spices perfectly.

Leftovers are rare, but if that should occur I can highly recommend shredding any remaining meat, adding a cup or two of roasted tomatoes and serving over pasta as a lamb ragu. And a reminder: I always love to hear back from you if you make this dish, especially if you have tweaks to make it better, so please leave feedback in the comments below. Enjoy!

Braised Lamb Shanks with Cardamom and Peppers

This lamb recipe is terrific braised and served the same day, but for a real treat make it a day ahead and put it in the refrigerator overnight. Holding it for a day gives the flavors a chance to meld deliciously, and it's easy to remove the bones and solidified fat before reheating.

4-lbs. lamb shanks (or shoulder roast)
3 Tbsp. olive oil
2 c. chopped onion
1 red bell pepper, coarsely chopped
2 pasilla, ancho or poblano pepper, coarsely chopped
4 cloves garlic, crushed
2 tsp. cardamom pods, crushed, using only the small seeds inside
2 tsp. cumin seeds
1/4 c. dried currants, coarsely chopped
1 c. chicken stock
2 c. roasted tomatoes (approx. one 15-oz. can)
Zest of 1 lemon

Preheat oven to 325 degrees.

Salt and pepper shanks and set aside.

Heat oil in large braising pot or Dutch overn. Add garlic and onion and sauté until tender. Add peppers and sauté until softened. Add cumin and cardamom seeds to the vegetables and sauté briefly. Add canned tomatoes, stock and currants and stir to combine. Place the shanks in a single layer in the pot, if possible, so they are mostly covered. Cover braising pot and place in middle of preheated oven. Braise for at least 3 hours.

Remove lamb from pot and separate the meat from the bones (bones can be discarded or, preferably, composted). Cover and hold in deep, pre-warmed serving platter or bowl. Skim fat from liquid in pan and bring to boil to reduce slightly. Season to taste with additional salt, if needed, and pour over lamb. Sprinkle with lemon zest and serve.

Find more of Michel's outstanding recipes, including her crab cakes, cherry corn salsa and Napa cabbage slaw.

The Norman Chronicles: Shanks and Hearts

Here it is, almost Thanksgiving, and when everyone else in the United States is thinking about turkey and dressing and sweet potatoes, I'm salivating at the thought of rich, dark lamb shanks braised to falling-apart lusciousness. That's not to say come Thursday evening we won't be having turkey and fixin's—Dave would pitch a fit if he couldn't put a big bird on the Weber and stand over it with a pint of A-Bomb in his hand—but there are still dinners to make the rest of the week and leftover turkey only goes so far, right?

The reason for my shanky dreams? It's what I did with a couple of Norman's shanks at a dinner for company a month or so ago, one that I want to reprise in the very near future. Though the store definitely won't have the huge 2-plus-pound shanks that Norman so generously provided, I can just double up on smaller shanks and come out with a dinner for six and still have enough leftovers to combine with tomatoes and pasta for dinner a second night.

Braised Lamb Shanks with Artichokes and Olives

3 Tbsp. olive oil
4 lbs. lamb shanks
2 c. onions, chopped in 1/4" dice
2 Tbsp. garlic, chopped fine
2 Italian or red bell peppers, roasted and cut in slivers
1 c. oil-cured or kalamata olives, pitted
16 oz. (2 pkgs.) frozen baby artichoke hearts (or fresh in season, trimmed)
1 1/2 c. roasted or canned tomatoes
2 Tbsp. fresh rosemary leaves, minced
1 c. white wine, such as a sauvignon blanc
1 c. chicken stock
Salt to taste

Preheat oven to 375°.

Trim excess fat from lamb shanks, then generously salt and pepper them. Heat oil in large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. When the oil shimmers, add lamb shanks and brown (in batches if necessary), then remove to a platter. Reduce heat to medium and add onions and garlic to the pot, adding more oil if necessary and scraping up any browned bits of lamb stuck to the bottom of the pot. Sauté till onions are translucent. Add roasted peppers, olives, artichoke hearts, tomatoes and rosemary and bring to a low simmer. Add lamb shanks back to the pot, burying them in the vegetables, and pour the wine and stock over the top.

Put the pot into the oven and roast for 2-3 hours until the lamb is ready to fall off the bone. Remove from the oven and allow to cool until you can remove the meat from the bones. Add salt to taste as needed.

At this point you can serve the braised lamb or, better yet, cool it completely and put in the fridge overnight to allow the flavors to meld. Reheat in a 300° oven and serve with Ayers Creek Farm Amish Butter polenta (or your favorite brand from the store).

Any leftovers can be used for a second dinner when combined with roasted tomatoes and served over pasta.

Read the other posts in The Norman Chronicles: Getting to Shepherd's Pie, Braising Saddles and Neck and Neck.

Lambie Lusciousness

For those of you who might be curious about the result of the black cardamom quest, I have but one word: "Yum."

Or maybe the words of those at the table would give a little more of the gist, such as "Freaking awesome!"

Served with a side of Roy's Calais Flint polenta, made from organic corn grown and ground at Ayers Creek Farm, I would say it approached heavenly. Though the rich, earthy flavor kept it firmly in the terrestrial realm.

Black Pepper Braised Lamb Shanks
Adapted from a recipe by Chef Floyd Cardoz for Epicurious
For Rub
6 whole black cardamom pods
1 Tbsp. coriander seeds
1 Tbsp. whole black peppercorns
2 tsp. cumin seeds
1 tsp. whole allspice
2 whole dried Thai chiles [I used dried red chiles...pepper flakes would be fine, too]
2 Tbsp. kosher salt
8 bone-in lamb shanks [I used six]

For Lamb
About 1/4 cup corn oil
4 med. onions, coarsely chopped
4 whole cloves
4 Turkish bay leaves
1/2 c. dry white wine
9 c. lamb stock or water [I used homemade chicken stock]
3 Tbsp. tamarind paste
2 whole sprigs fresh rosemary
2 whole sprigs fresh thyme
4 Tbsp. (packed) light brown sugar
1 med. celery root (celeriac), peeled and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
2 Tbsp. fresh ginger, finely chopped
5 cloves garlic, finely chopped (about 2 Tbsp.)
1 Tbsp. kosher salt

In a heavy, dry skillet over moderate heat, toast cardamom, coriander, peppercorns, cumin, allspice, and chiles, stirring often, until fragrant, about 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from pan and let cool. Using spice or coffee grinder, grind spices and chiles to semi-fine powder. In small bowl, stir together spice powder and salt.

Pat lamb shanks dry. Measure 1 teaspoon spice mixture into separate small bowl and set aside. Rub remaining mixture over shanks and refrigerate at least 6 hours and up to 24 hours.

Preheat oven to 350°F. In 8-quart heavy pot over moderately high heat, heat 1 tablespoon oil until hot but not smoking. Working in batches, sear shanks, turning occasionally, until brown on all sides, about 5 minutes per batch. Transfer as browned to large roasting pan.

Do not clean fat from pot. Lower heat to moderate and add onions, cloves and bay leaves. Sauté until onions are soft, about 8 minutes. Stir in reserved teaspoon spice mixture and sauté until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Whisk in wine, lamb stock, tamarind paste, rosemary, thyme, brown sugar, celery root, ginger, garlic, and salt, then raise heat and bring to boil. Pour mixture over shanks, cover tightly with foil, and braise in middle of oven until meat is very tender, about 2 1/2 to 3 hours.

The original recipe says to remove the shanks to a platter, pour the braising liquid through a strainer and reduce the liquid by half. This is then used as a sauce to pour over the shanks. I just couldn't see throwing out all the lovely braised vegetables that were so full of flavor, so I just transferred the meat, vegetables and liquid into a serving bowl and ladled it over the polenta.