Food Farmer Earth: Anatomy of a Pop-up Restaurant

In this interview for Food Farmer Earth, I talk with Kathryn LaSusa-Yeomans of The Farmer's Feast, who dissects the elements that go into making her incredibly successful pop-up restaurant experiences.

“What’s a pop-up?”

It’s the question that Kathryn LaSusa Yeomans gets asked the most about her recent venture. A seasoned chef who early in her career trained with the likes of Lidia Bastianich and Diana Kennedy, Yeomans worked in restaurants in her home state of New York and in her adopted home in Portland, Oregon.

At a certain point, though, she needed to break free of the constraints of restaurant kitchens to pursue her dream of teaching people to cook using market-fresh, seasonal ingredients. With the birth of her own company, The Farmer’s Feast, she started doing cooking classes at area farmers’ markets, as well as for Roger Konka’s Springwater Farm, demonstrating how to cook with his foraged greens and mushrooms.

It was Konka who first suggested selling food as well as doing demonstrations, and it wasn’t long before there was talk of holding dinners for their growing throng of fans. They’d been renting space in a local restaurant for their commissary kitchen, and the owner was enthusiastic about having them use the place for dinners on nights when the restaurant was closed.

Read the rest of the article.

Watch part two of the interview with Kathryn, Teaching From the Source. In this week's kitchen segment, Kathryn shows how incredibly simple it is to make a basic risotto. To get regular updates on local producers featured on Food Farmer Earth, consider a free subscription.

Livin' in the Blurbs: Poetry of Spring

Grab your tatami mat and calligraphy brush, folks, it's time for the 3rd Annual Springwater Farm Truffle Haiku contest! If spring has you longing for these treasures from the forest floor and you find pleasure in the olfactory explosion in your head when you inhale their scent, this is your chance to express yourself. Even better, there are prizes involved! The deadline for entries is Sunday, Feb. 19, and you can post your composition on The Farmer's Feast website or drop it off at the Springwater Farm stand at the Portland Farmers Market on Sat., Feb. 18, or at the Hillsdale Farmers' Market on Feb. 19. If you need some more inspiration, last year's winner was a doozy:

It was our first time
You and I unearthed much more
Now we search as one

As with any contest, if you don't enter, you can't win, so get to scribblin'!

* * *

You don't need to watch Portlandia or read the New York Times to get the message that Portland is one of the coolest places on the planet to live. All you have to do is go to the city's Bureau of Planning and Sustainability (yes, it's cool enough to have that, too) and take a gander at their list of Urban Growth Bounty classes (also listed on the calendar, left). From beekeeping to chickens to organic gardening to food preservation, for a reasonable price ($15-$50) you can learn from the experts about how to be a more productive citizen. Literally!

* * *

If you love good music but hate crowded arenas or concert halls, not to mention sky-high ticket prices, consider one of the small venue concerts put on by Matt Miner Music. Matt began by putting on concerts in his home featuring local and national singers and songwriters looking to supplement their concert schedules. Now he's moved to intimate venues where you can sit mere feet from some brilliant musicians, with ticket prices that are ridiculously cheap considering the talents on display:

• Gary Ogan. Mar. 8, 7 pm; $10 adv., $12 door. O'Connor's Vault, 7850 SW Capitol Hwy.
• Jazz Guitar Summit with Dan Balmer, John Stowell and Mike Pardue. Mar. 18, 3 pm; $20 adv. Nel Centro Restaurant in the Modera Hotel, 1408 SW 6th Ave.
• The Barn Birds, Chris Kokesh and Jonathan Byrd. April 27, 9 pm; $15 adv. Secret Society Ballroom, 116 NE Russell St.

Details: Concerts by Matt Miner Music. Tickets available through Brown Paper Tickets. Info, contact 503-484-8196 or e-mail.

Livin' in the Blurbs: Good Eatin'!

Farmers' market regulars in the Portland area know Gathering Together Farm as the double-wide stands overflowing with some of the most gorgeous, flavor-filled organic produce in the area. What most folks don't know is that John Eveland and Sally Brewer have a farm store as well as a full-service restaurant on their farm in Philomath outside of Corvallis. It goes without saying that the restaurant features a menu chock-full of the produce grown on the farm, with pizzas from their wood fired oven loaded with local cheeses and meats as well as a full list of hearty entrées and wines. Don't forget to peruse their list of upcoming wine dinners featuring local wineries; though a word to the wise is to make reservations early since these are in high demand and sell out quickly. It's a do-able evening excursion from Portland, and even better as a romantic dinner destination for an out-of-town overnighter.

Details: Gathering Together Farm restaurant. Lunch: Thurs. & Fri. 11 am-2 pm; Dinner: Thurs. & Fri. 5:30-9 pm; Saturday Breakfast: 9 am-2 pm.

* * *

It's a sad truth that Portland doesn't have a great selection of truly authentic Indian restaurants. The good news is that there are several classes being offered that will not only teach you how to make these dishes at home but will share resources on where to find the spices that will make them regular go-to recipes on your dinner roster. My friend Sophie Rahman of Masala NW has just released her spring class list, and it looks fantastic:

• Creating Dals from a Variety of Lentils (a vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free class)
• Reminiscent of the Raj: The Mystery of Curry
• Breads of India: Naans and Rotis (vegetarian)
• Regional Cuisines of India from the North to the South

Details: Indian Cooking with Sophie Rahman of Masala NW. Check the website for the full list of upcoming class descriptions and schedules.

* * *

It's a pairing as momentous as Antony and Cleopatra, Ike and Tina Turner, Branjelina or, for that matter, Mario Batali and Gwyneth Paltrow (though easier on the eyes, for sure). Farmers' market chef Kathryn LaSusa Yeomans and Portland mushroom mavens Roger Konka and Norma Cravens have teamed up over the last few seasons to present product tastings and recipes to customers of Springwater Farm. But now they're taking it to the next level with full-on dinners prepared with goodness from Springwater and other local purveyors. Judging from the smashing success of their recent multi-course Truffle Dinner, the upcoming four-course Forager's Feast, even with two dates available, should be a sell-out event, so get your tickets now.

Details: Forager's Feast. Sun., April 10th and Sat., April 16th at 7 pm; $40, reservations required. All gratuities will be donated to the Portland Farmers' Market SNAP Matching Program.

Magic Mushrooms

I love my little upright freezer. It allows me to buy berries with impunity, pulling them out on cold, rainy days when I desperately need a reminder that summer will, indeed, come again. And because I usually had my nose in a book when my mother was hauling out her big speckled enamel canner, all I have to do now is dump the roasted tomatoes from the grill into freezer bags and pull them out when pizza or pasta requires saucing.

On those nights when it's time for dinner (again???) and ideas are in short supply, I can open the door, survey the stocks, meats and sauces and come away with armloads of inspiration.

So when a couple of pounds of Springwater Farms'  gorgeous fresh mushrooms followed me home from the Hillsdale Farmers' Market, I tore them up, sautéed them with some shallots and white wine and spooned them into a couple of freezer bags. It's pretty much guaranteed that soon I'll open that door again and hear a whisper about ragu or risotto or chowder.

Wild Mushroom Duxelles

2 lbs. wild mushrooms
2 Tbsp. olive oil
2 shallots, minced
1/4 c. dry white wine or dry vermouth

Tear or slice mushrooms into bite-sized pieces. Heat oil in a skillet, add minced shallots and sauté briefly to warm them. Quickly add mushroom pieces and sauté until they release their juices and pans looks dry. Add wine and sauté till most of the moisture is evaporated. Allow to cool. Can be used immediately or put in freezer bags and frozen for later use.

Truffle Haiku: The People's Turn to Choose!

Diamonds? Meh. Couture gown? Sigh. A little red sports car? I dunno. But give me an Oregon truffle, particularly shaved over pasta or a rich risotto, and I'm all yours, baby.

My friend Kathryn LaSusa Yeomans, chef and mistress of the markets at Roger Konka and Norma Cravens' Springwater Farm, loves the subterranean fungal fruit as much as I do, and runs a truffle haiku contest on Valentine's Day every year for those moved to poetry over the subject. This year's winner was announced yesterday on her blog, The Farmer's Feast, and now is your chance to pick the People's Choice award for the 17 syllables that best describe the euphoria brought on by Oregon's native truffle.

So scan, analyze or just close your eyes and point at the screen to pick your favorite. Leave your name (or pseudonym) and the number of your choice in the Comments below. The haiku with the most votes will win a prize for the writer, and a winner will be drawn (and a prize awarded) from those who voted for it. Both will be announced at noon on Monday, Feb. 21, so pick your winner now and check back on Monday!

1:
Hidden Dame Truffles
Black and White Knobs of Pleasure
How My Mouth Waters

2:
First befriend a swine
Next profess your Truffle wish:
“Bejewel my pasta”

3:
Rooted from the damp earth
a little bit of heaven
sautéed for dinner

4:
Black or white delight
on all my favorite dishes
so trufflicious

5:
A kiss on her lips
A trifle for a truffle
A heart on a sleeve

6:
They lie underground
Waiting to be discovered
Heaven in the dirt

7:
Truffles, you grow in the ground
Pigs love you.
We love you also

8:
Some may dare call you
ascomycetous fungus
But truffles, you’re loved.

9:
I’m the hunter pig.
I am going to find you.
Truffles, you are MINE!

10:
Trufficulteurs find
some bumpy, wrinkled masses.
Thankful evermore.

11:

Underneath the duff
There lies most marvelous stuff
Treasures of Truffles

12:
Oh! Dew Drop Riches
Forested in your niches
Take me there again

13:
The foragers gaze
Only broken by smiles
In bountiful woods

14:
Black and white are tight
on all my favorite dishes,
so trufflicious!

15:
Dirt worm chance
My pig’s nose
Found it and an arrowhead.

16:
Truffle dance,
melt sensuously in
to the void I fear.

17:
It was our first time
You and I unearthed much more
Now we search as one

18:
How best to woo you?
Shaved lightly over pasta
Fragrant lumps of love

Photos above by Kathryn LaSusa Yeomans.

More Nettles, But No More Urban Market

GSNW contributor and chef Kathryn LaSusa Yeomans (below left) has been collaborating with Springwater Farm at the Urban Farm Stand every Saturday this past winter, preparing delectable soups, sautés and samples for the 'hoodistas stopping by their stand at NE 30th and Emerson. Now comes word that the stand will be ceasing operation when farmers' market season opens this Saturday, Mar. 20th. I personally thank them for brightening one corner of NE Portland, and hope that they return next winter!

It sure feels like spring, and though we're not quite into morel season, it's seeming closer by the day. In fact, nettles and fiddlehead ferns are already here. Find them along with plenty of wonderful mushrooms, fruit, eggs, lamb, goat, preserves, cider and legumes at the spring market. Stop by for a taste of the spring bounty!

Nettle and Egg Flan
Adapted from Lidia Bastianich

Eggs are a delicious, cheap source of complex proteins and good fats. They make an excellent weekday lunch or dinner, and this recipe can be made ahead and reheated easily. Nettles are one of the first wild greens that emerge in the spring. They are similar to spinach in nutrient content, but are much richer in iron and trace minerals—think super spinach! Substitute spinach, Swiss chard or other greens if nettles are unavailable. Also, nettle cooking water can be used for cooking rice or as a broth for making soup.

Softened butter for the ramekins or flan molds
1/2 lb. fresh young nettle leaves
4 large farm fresh eggs
1 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
1/3 c. chopped chives or green onion tops
4 fresh sage leaves
1/3 c. grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Pecorino Romano or Asiago cheese
2 c. heavy cream

Preheat the oven to 275° and place the rack in the center position. Butter six 8-oz. ceramic ramekins, glass custard cups or disposable aluminum cups and set aside.

Cook the nettle leaves in a large pot of boiling salted water until tender, about 2-3 minutes. Drain thoroughly, rinse under cold water until cool enough to handle, then with your hands, squeeze out as much water as possible.

In a small bowl, whisk the eggs, salt, pepper and nutmeg together until blended. Combine the squeezed nettles, chives and sage in a food processor and process until finely chopped. Add the egg mixture and grated cheese and process until the mixture is extremely smooth, about 3 minutes. Add the cream and process until thoroughly incorporated, about 30 seconds.

Divide the nettle mixture among the prepared ramekins. Set the ramekins in a large baking dish so they don’t touch each other. Place the dish on the oven rack and pour in enough hot water to come halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Bake until the centers are firm to the touch, about an hour.

Remove the baking dish from the oven and let the flans cool in the water for 10 minutes. Run a thin-bladed knife around the sides of the ramekins and invert the flans onto serving plates. Serve with a light tomato sauce or a simple green salad.

Eat Something Sexy

Chef and contributor Kathryn LaSusa Yeomans gives us a primer on the truffle.

It’s customary to give your love a box of chocolate truffles to express your feelings, but if you really want to woo her, offer a heart-shaped box of fungus instead. I’m referring, of course, to that elusive and most coveted of mushrooms, the truffle.

A most enigmatic foodstuff, truffles are a source of mystery and lore. They boldly give forth a scent that has lured both man and pig for centuries—a unique, ethereal odor of deep woods and musk that to some is overly-pungent or even repulsive, but there is no denying our fascination with them.

Until quite recently, it was impossible to cultivate truffles with much success. Despite recent revelations in the inoculation process (filbert trees can be inoculated with truffle spores that may then produce truffle “crops”), most truffles in Oregon are still hunted by skilled foragers who search them out, with or without the aid of dogs, in the damp winter orchards and forests of the state. Their prize for hours spent digging in the dirt is the crown jewel of the mushroom world.

Truffle risotto.

Working with Springwater Farm at several farmers' markets, I've come to recognize two distinct sets of shoppers—those in the know about truffles and those that are curious but have no idea what to do with these peculiar savory-scented black and white orbs (that's KAB, excited but puzzled, in the top photo). So I offer you a very basic truffle tutorial:

First: yes, truffles are a luxury, but a more affordable one. Don’t be put off entirely by their price tag. They are lightweight, and each is powerfully perfumed. A little goes a long way. Look for truffles that are dry and have a pleasing scent. A wet truffle is a sign that it is about to go to the dark side, as has a very unpleasant, fetid odor. Truffles do grow underground, so a little earth can be expected. Just shy away from specimens that are caked with dirt – you don’t want to pay a premium for soil.

Second: protect your investment. Use them when they are at their peak. Don’t wait. Remember that dark side I mentioned? Well, they tend to head fast into it once they’ve ripened. If you aren’t ready to use them when they are ready to be used, just chop them up and add them to an amount of softened butter and season with salt. You can then put the truffle butter in the freezer where it will keep for several months.

Roger Konka of Springwater Farm as the truffle fairy.

OK, you’ve found your source, they are ripe and ready, now what the heck do you do with these things? Essentially, they are a finishing ingredient. Shave them over a mushroom risotto or add a lump of truffle butter to good quality fettuccine, then shave a little truffle over the top. Stir chopped truffle into scrambled eggs. Truffles marry well with root vegetables, too. Toss very thin slices of truffle with hot cooked potato and butter or olive oil (or roasted roots such as rutabaga or parsnips), or stir chopped truffle into a cream of sunchoke or celery root soup.

Truffled popcorn is pretty decadent—toss hot popped corn with truffle butter and truffle salt (the salt is made by Norma Cravens when truffles are in season and is available at Springwater Farm). I’ve included a couple of my favorite simple truffle recipes below. Keep in mind that the most common faux pas with these earthy gems is to overheat them. Truffles, though pungent, are delicate beings. Their scent is accentuated by gentle warming, but is quickly destroyed by intense heat.

Chef Kathryn can offer advice and chop at the same time.

Still have truffle questions? I offer sage culinary advice this winter at the Urban Farm Stand on NE 30th and Emerson, one block south of Killingsworth, Saturdays through March 13th from 10 am to 3 pm, and at the Hillsdale Farmers Market on Sundays at the Springwater Farm booth, where, incidentally, you can find amazing truffles.

Truffled Shirred Egg with Soft Herbs

A shirred egg is a gently baked egg. Truffles and soft herbs make this ordinary egg extraordinary. Serve with a slice of good quality rustic country bread, such as ciabatta.

Butter or truffle butter to coat the baking dish
1 egg
Truffle salt or kosher salt
Truffle (black or white)
A few soft herbs (small leaves of parsley, chervil, tarragon, and small sticks of chive)

Preheat an oven to 350°.

Coat a very small baking dish with butter (the dish should just accommodate the cracked egg). Crack the egg into the dish and season with truffle salt. Place the dish in the oven and bake until the egg is just set (check after 5 minutes, keeping in mind that the egg will take a bit of time to begin cooking, but will then move along quite quickly). Shave a generous amount of truffle over the egg, decorate with herbs and sprinkle with truffle salt.

Truffle Bruschetta
Adapted from Lidia Bastianich

2 thick slices rustic bread (such as ciabatta)
A black or white truffle
1/2 of an anchovy fillet (optional)
Enough butter to blend into the truffle (about 2 Tbsp.), room temperature
Truffle salt or kosher salt

Preheat the oven to 350°. Lay the bread slices flat on a baking sheet and toast them in the oven for about 4 minutes or so, turn the slices over and toast on the other side for about 4 minutes until they are light gold. Cool on a wire rack.

Brush the truffle clean with a kitchen towel or vegetable brush. With a sharp vegetable peeler, a mandoline or a truffle slicer, shave off about a dozen slices of truffles onto a sheet of waxed or parchment paper. Finely chop or grate the rest of the truffle (the fine holes of a box grater work well). Put the butter and anchovy in a mini-food processor and pulse until smooth. Fold in the grated truffle and season with truffle salt.

Spread the butter onto the toasted bread. Garnish with the truffle slices and serve immediately.

Market in the Making

"And up from the ground came a bubblin' crude…"

- Theme song from The Beverly Hillbillies

Like when Jed Clampett was shootin' at some food, Roger Konka and Norma Cravens saw an empty lot just off a nascent restaurant row on Northeast Killingsworth and what bubbled up before their eyes was a spot where they could sell their bounty of wild and cultivated mushrooms. A weed-covered emptiness, the lot was owned by a friend of Roger's. Of course, it didn't hurt that it was right across the street from Beast, perennially named one of Portland's best restaurants, and just down the block from Yakuza Lounge, Fats pub, Autentica, DOC and funky breakfast spot Cup and Saucer.

An instant hit, it didn't hurt that chef (and GSNW contributor) Kathryn LaSusa Yeomans (left) was dishing out samples of her crazy cream of mushroom soup, along with a rotating cast that included her bean stews, polenta with lamb and a heavenly apple crisp. (Try walking by that without stopping on a chilly Saturday. I dare you.)

Then, within a week they were joined by Hood River's Draper Girls, selling not only their signature fruit, but fresh-pressed cider, dried beans, pork and lamb. And just last week Nancy Chandlers' hugely popular Alsea Acre Goat Cheese joined them with her nearly impossible-to-resist herbed cheese spreads.

Apparently other vendors are clamoring to join them, so this little market may be going viral. I'll keep you posted on what bubbles up next.

Details: Urban Farm Market. Saturdays, 10 am-3 pm. NE 30th and Emerson, 1 block south of Killingsworth.

Livin' in the Blurbs: Coming Attractions

What does a nascent farmers' market look like? Well, all you have to do is show up on a Saturday at NE 30th between Killingsworth and Emerson. Roger Konka and Norma Cravens were looking for more outlets for their fabulous Springwater Farm mushrooms. Roger had a friend who owned a vacant lot across from the foodie hotspot at NE 30th & Killingsworth (can you say Beast, Yakuza, Autentica, Fats and DOC?), so he asked if they could open a farm stand there. They did well selling 'shrooms and giving out samples of chef Kathryn LaSusa Yeomans' soups along with her easy soup kits. Now they've been joined by Draper Girls, Hood River fruit mavens, who've added produce, cider, lamb and goat meat and legumes. Looks like a market to me!

Details: Urban Farm Stand, 10 am-3 pm Saturdays on NE 30th between Killingsworth & Emerson (look for the bright blue awning).

* * *

If you've been avoiding the Portland Farmers' Market at PSU because it's just too crowded, you can look forward to a little more elbow room. Word is just in that the market is going to spread out and take over the block immediately to the south, clearing out the bustling center area and leaving room to picnic, play and breathe. Even bigger news is that they're adding another two markets, one in Pioneer Courthouse Square downtown on Mondays from 10 am to 2 pm, and one on Northwest 23rd and Savier on Thursdays from 3 pm to 7 pm, giving us more opportunities to meet the people who grow our food. And that's always a good thing!

Details: Portland Farmers Markets. Saturdays starting Mar. 20, 8:30 am-2 pm, PSU; Mondays starting June 21, 10 am-2 pm, Pioneer Courthouse Square; Wednesdays starting May 5, 10 am-2 pm, in the S Park Blocks between SW Park and Salmon; Thursdays starting June 3, 3-7 pm, NW 23rd & Savier; Thursdays starting May 6, 3-7 pm, SE 20th & Salmon; Sundays starting May 2, 10 am-2 pm on NE 7th and Wygant.

* * *

And if you're like me and you'd love some fresh ideas for using all that great produce, there are a couple of cooking classes coming up that look very promising:

• (Nearly) Meatless Monday: The Global Gourmet with chef Ivy Manning (left), will teach you to make great Indian, Thai, Greek and Moroccan recipes that are full of vegetables, whole grains, spices and just a little bit of meat to create satisfying meals that are nutrient rich, cost less, and have a smaller carbon footprint. Feb. 8, 6-8 pm; $40, registration required. Whole Foods Market, 3535 NE 15th Ave.
• The Food of Haiti: A Benefit for Healing Hands of Haiti with Karen Weitz. The class will cook goat stew, red beans and rice and dessert, share the meal and have copies of the recipes to take home. Feb. 12, 6-9 pm; $60, reservations required. And She Cooks! 2335 NE 41st Ave. 503-288-8196.
• Making Sushi at Home with Yuki Yamada. The class will feature hands-on directions for making miso soup, nigari, several kinds of rolls, fish cutting and sushi rice. Dinner is included. Feb. 14, 3-6 pm; $60, reservations required. And She Cooks! 2335 NE 41st Ave. 503-288-8196.

Mad About Mushrooms

Our drippy, damp fall and winter weather may not be everyone's cuppa, but some thrive in this moist environment. They're called fungi. Welcome them into your home with this creamy, cozy soup from contributor Kathryn LaSusa Yeomans.

As the cold comes on, many farms wind down for the winter, but the opposite is happening at Springwater Farm, whose offerings are at their peak. Chanterelles, porcini, truffles, hedgehog, black trumpet, yellowfoot, matsutake, fried chicken mushrooms, cauliflower mushrooms, nameko, shiitake and maitake are all in season right now!

Here's Springwater Farm's own fantastic Cream of Mushroom Soup recipe:

Springwater Farm Cream of Mushroom Soup

4 oz. fresh shiitake mushrooms
4 oz. fresh maitake mushrooms
4 oz. fresh chanterelle mushrooms
1 Tbsp. good olive oil
1/4 lb. (1 stick) plus 1 Tbsp. unsalted butter, divided
1 c. chopped yellow onion
1 carrot, chopped
1 sprig fresh thyme plus 1 tsp. minced thyme leaves, divided
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 c. chopped leeks, white and light green parts (2 leeks)
1/4 c. all-purpose flour
1 c. dry white wine
1 c. half-and-half
1 c. heavy cream
1/2 c. minced fresh flat-leaf parsley

To make the stock, heat the olive oil and 1 tablespoon of the butter in a large pot. Add the onion, carrot, the sprig of thyme, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper and cook over medium-low heat for 10 to 15 minutes, until the vegetables are soft. Add 6 cups water, bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer uncovered for 30 minutes. Strain, reserving the liquid. You should have about 4 1/2 cups of stock. If not, add some water.

Meanwhile, in another large pot, heat the remaining 1/4 pound of butter and add the leeks. Cook over low heat for 15 to 20 minutes, until the leeks begin to brown. Slice the mushrooms 1/4-inch thick and, if they are big, cut them into bite-sized pieces. Add the sliced mushrooms and cook for 10 minutes, or until they are tender. Add the flour and cook for 1 minute. Add the white wine and stir for another minute, scraping the bottom of the pot. Add the vegetable stock, minced thyme leaves, 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, and 1 teaspoon pepper and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 15 minutes. Add the half-and-half, cream, and parsley, season with salt and pepper to taste and heat through but do not boil. Serve hot.

In Season: Fiddleheads!

I was introduced to this short-lived spring green by my in-laws, former farmers in the tiny town of Houlton, Maine, often known as the coldest place in the nation in winter. They were shocked (shocked!) that I'd never had the curly delicacy that tastes like a crunchy version of spinach and is found along most streams in that state. And we were both relieved when I asked for seconds.

Norma Cravens of Springwater Farm near St. Helens gathers them on her property along with spring nettles and gorgeous maitake mushrooms. She sells her produce to several restaurants, including Nostrana, but you can find her at several of the Portland-area farmers' markets. Fiddleheads will only be around for another week or so, but if you hurry you can have these wild green treats before they're gone.