Breakfast for Dinner: Craving Spring Things

Let's face it: Spring is all about sex. Call it reproduction, fertility or, to use Anthony Boutard's favorite word, fecundity, nature is having a field day making more of itself. Hens start laying eggs again, little green things (weeds included) are popping out of the bare earth and farmers are finally able to get out in their fields to plant crops, muddy and clumpy though those fields may be.

Chorizo and spring vegetables…yum!

I've been longing for spring things lately, especially after a winter diet of root vegetables and winter greens, and my freezer is looking mighty empty since we've cleaned out most of the roasted tomatoes, lamb, pork and beef I crammed into it last fall. Luckily the farmers' market season is roaring back to life now, so it's easy to satisfy my craving for these first sweet sproutings.

Homemade sourdough cubes, natch!

With that in mind, a recent article by David Tanis in the Dining section of the New York Times about a Spanish dish of eggs and spring vegetables piqued my interest. Called revueltos or huevos revueltos, it basically means scrambled eggs and usually includes vegetables of one sort or another. Often found at tapas bars or served as a light supper dish—my fondness for these "breakfast for dinner" dishes is longstanding—the one that Tanis shared featured asparagus and bread cubes toasted in olive oil and garlic.

I happened to have picked up a couple of bunches of asparagus at the mid-week Shemanski market from Leslie at Viridian Farms, and had about half a bunch of green garlic left over from an earlier trip. Dinner was still an open question and I'd just replenished the egg supply, so I decided to follow the seeming synchronicity and give the dish a whirl.

Needless to say, and anyone who's made a frittata, quiche or even an omelet can attest, it was simple, quick and delicious. Perfect for a spring supper!

Revueltos (Scrambled Eggs) with Green Garlic and Asparagus

Adapted from David Tanis

Olive oil

2 peeled garlic cloves

2 c. dried bread cubes, cut in 1/2" cubes

3 oz. diced Spanish chorizo*

1 bunch asparagus, about 1 1/2 lbs., sliced in 1" lengths

1/2 bunch green garlic, sliced in 1" lengths

8 large eggs, beaten

1/2 tsp. Spanish pimentón (smoked paprika)

Salt to taste

Heat 3 tablespoons olive oil in a large non-stick skillet (or well-seasoned cast iron pan) over medium-high heat. Add peeled garlic cloves and let them sizzle until lightly browned, then remove. Add bread cubes, lower heat to medium and gently fry until lightly browned and crisp, about 2 minutes. Remove bread and set aside to cool.

Add chorizo and fry lightly. Add asparagus and green garlic and stir-fry until cooked through but firm, 3 to 4 minutes. 

Reduce heat to low. Add pimentón to eggs. Pour eggs into skillet with vegetables and cook, stirring with a wooden spoon, just until soft and creamy, 2 to 3 minutes. Top with bread cubes and serve in the skillet, or transfer eggs to large serving bowl, topping with bread cubes, and serve immediately.

This would also make a great breakfast or brunch dish.

* I used my friend Paul Bertolli's Fra'Mani Chorizo Pork Sausage.

In Season NW: Join the Parade!

I was trying to think of a good metaphor for the farmers' markets opening this week, and the first thing that came to my mind was popcorn. You heat the oil, pour in the kernels and at first there's nothing…then a few seconds later you hear a pop. A second later there are a couple more pops, then suddenly a chorus.

But however you choose to think of it, we're fast approaching the rolling waves of the harvest that summer represents, first with strawberries and early vegetables, then the fat cane and bush berries and fruits, peppers and tomatoes (left). I get excited just thinking about it, so before I go completely off into fantasy land, here's a roundup of markets opening in the next few days:

• Shemanski Park, Wed., May 4, 10 am-2 pm. The mid-week version of the big Kahuna that is the PSU market, it draws a big crowd of downtown office workers for lunch and a chance to restock the pantry before the weekend. In the South Park Blocks at Shemanski Park between SW Salmon and Main.
• Buckman Market, Thurs., May 5, 3-7 pm. A small, well-curated market, its Thursday afternoon slot has been a big hit with the residents of this inner eastside neighborhood. At SE 20th and Salmon between SE Belmont and Hawthorne in the parking lot of Hinson Baptist Church.
• Beaverton Farmers' Market, Sat., May 7, 8 am-1:30 pm. The area's signature farmers' market representing the bounty of Washington County and beyond, it is a destination for tourists and residents alike. On SW Hall Blvd between 3rd and 5th Streets in Beaverton.
• Hollywood Farmers' Market, Sat., May 7, 8 am-1 pm. A lively market in one of NE Portland's hot neighborhoods, it draws from people all over the city's east side. On NE Hancock between 44th & 45th Avenues.
• Oregon City Saturday Farmers' Market,  Sat., May 7, 9 am-2 pm. This suburban market has grown from a scattering of tents to a vibrant survey of the bounty of farms south of the city. 2051 Kaen Road, off Beavercreek Road.
• Moreland Farmers' Market, Wed., May 11, 3:30-7:30 pm. You'll find neighbors gathering to shop and visit at this mid-week market…it's also a perfect place to sit and nosh and soak up the mellow neighborhood vibe. At SE Bybee Blvd. and 14th St. with free parking across the street at SE 14th and Glenwood.
• Oregon City Downtown Market, Wed., June 1, 3-7 pm. The mid-week version of the Saturday market, it is located in the same spot that a "producers market" operated in 1924. 8th and Main Streets in downtown Oregon City.
• Montavilla Farmers' Market, Sun., June 5, 10 am-2 pm. Montavilla feels less like an urban market than one you'd find in a small town, with friendly neighbors laughing and local businesses joining in the fun with events and promotions. Between SE 76th and 78th Streets on Stark Street.

Look for a complete schedule of Portland and Willamette Valley farmers' markets on the Oregon Farmers' Market page.