Quick Hits: Sen Yai, Alberta St. Pub, Reister Farms

"Sen Yai specializes in Kuaytiaw, the noodle dishes of Thailand. Kuaytiaw is eaten at all times of the day; as a late night snack, economical dinner, a quick lunch on the run, even for breakfast."

True to the Pok Pok ethos and like his other local eateries, Andy Ricker's brand new Sen Yai Noodles is packed with native vibe and lots of hard-to-pronounce items on the menu. To be clear, in my book that is a reason to run in, rather than away from, a restaurant.

Roasted peanuts.

I also broke one of my cardinal rules when I visited, which is to give a new place a couple of months to work out kinks, settle in and get a groove going. But when the lovely and massively talented Ivy Manning called with an invite to check it out for lunch, how could I say no? Lots of other folks had the identical urge that day, and while there were plenty of seats available when we got there, within a few minutes every tiny table in the place was taken, with a line snaking out the door.

Boat noodles.

Ivy's been to Thailand and knows its cuisine quite intimately, so I let her do the ordering. We started with the house-roasted red peanuts, which came as a small stapled packet containing the aforementioned peanuts along with lime leaf, chiles and salt…a crunchy, delicious teaser. Traditional Kuaytiaw Reua or "boat noodles" were a big hit, rice noodles in a complex, richly aromatic dark broth, three preparations of beef and "water spinach" (ipomoea aquatica) as well as dry-roasted chiles, herbs and bean sprouts.

For noodle-heads this is a must-try and, though prices aren't cheap, the preparations are terrific.

Details: Sen Yai Noodles, 3384 SE Division. 503-236-3573.

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Once again I broke the "don't go to a just-opened restaurant" rule when I decided to head up the hill to the just-opened Alberta Street Pub with the inimitable, estimable talents of Kevin Sandri (Garden State and Burgatroyd food carts) in the kitchen. I knew he'd been perfecting the stalwarts of any pub menu, a standout burger and fabulous fish'n'chips, and I wanted to stop in to both support him and check out the progress of his efforts.

Boiled peanuts.

Along with my two favorite testers, my husband Dave and our son, both Sandri fanatics, we got the only three seats left in the bar, which was packed due to a crowd waiting to attend an evening concert in the attached performance space. Sandri and his crew were handling the opening week pressure with aplomb, though, since our beverages and food orders popped out of the kitchen without delay.

We started with the boiled peanuts, a treat Sandri came across while driving through North Portland, spotting a guy selling them on a corner. Immediately smitten, he'd been obsessively working on perfecting this Southern specialty for the menu. In their shells and soaking in a dark, salty broth, they were amazing, a soft, messy, delicious counterpart to the roasted peanuts I'd had at Sen Yai (see above).

Strawberry hand pie.

Even with Sandri's mad skills at hand, I was nervous about the fish'n'chips, having been disappointed at so many other places, but one look at the plate when it arrived and my fears were erased. Three good-sized pieces of delicately battered, perfectly cooked cod were resting comfortably on a pile of crispy hot fries, sided by a slightly sweet tarragon and dill-inflected tartar sauce. And it goes without saying that the porchetta sandwich, pork shoulder and belly with salsa verde, mayo and arugula, was sublime given Sandri's sterling meat cred.

We even sprang for the Whiffies fried hand pie filled with local strawberries, a treat I'll be remembering for a long, long time. I can only hope that Mr. Sandri decides to stay in this kitchen for an equally long, long time.

Details: Alberta Street Pub, 1036 NE Alberta St. 503-284-7665.

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More meat is good meat in my book, especially when it comes from animals pasture-raised on a small family farm. Which is what drew me to the awning at the Buckman Farmers Market with a hand-lettered blackboard that read "Reister Farms." Well, that and the fact that I'd just run into Mark Doxtader of Tastebud, who was eagerly devouring a lamb kielbasa dog featured on that same blackboard. So with the attitude that if Mark likes it, I probably will, too, I wandered over.

The dog, grilled before my eyes à la Foreman, was a hefty length of lamb innovatively wrapped in a pretzel roll from Fressen Artisan Bakery and smothered in fresh sauerkraut.  The salty sturdiness of the roll was a great foil for the lamb and sauerkraut, and held together till the very last bite, a good test of any hot dog bun worthy of the name.

I'm looking forward to getting to know more about the Reisters, who hail from Washougal, and their farm. In the meantime I'll be sampling their dogs and whatever other wares they're featuring the next time I'm at the market.

Details: Reister Farms products can be found at the Buckman Farmers Market on Thursdays from 3-7 pm, at SE 20th & Salmon between SE Belmont and SE Hawthorne in the parking lot of Hinson Baptist Church.

Summer Greens from the Subcontinent

Ssssssshhhhhhhhh…quiet, now. We don't want to frighten it. It took its sweet time getting here, but it looks like it may, it just might maybe possibly be here. But don't get too giddy and start shouting. Smile, nod, even pull out your sandals and capris, that's OK. Just don't make a ruckus and scare summer away…we want it to stick around!

So assuming it is here, I wanted to share what looks like my go-to side dish for summer barbecues, care of my friend Sophie Rahman of Masala NW. I ran into her while she was doing a demo at the Buckman Farmers' Market the other day, and when I saw how easy this stir-fried vegetable dish was I had to have the recipe.

Sophie's been teaching Indian cooking classes out of her home for a couple of years now, helping people learn to incorporate the intoxicating spices and ingredients of that coountry in their everyday cooking. Her focus is on market-fresh produce, and for her demo she'd picked up a bag of gorgeous braising greens and spring onions from a couple of vendors. These were combined with bright yellow dal she'd made ahead, then mixed in at the end of cooking.

So simple, so delicious. And would even make a meal in itself, especially with the carrot raisin salad tossed with sautéed black mustard seeds she made at the same demo!

Sophie's Poriyal

1/2 c. dry yellow split peas or moong dal
1 tsp. urad dal or white split gram beans
1/4 tsp. turmeric powder
1 c. onion, finely chopped
2 Tbsp. canola oil
2 bunches fresh spinach or other greens, washed and chopped (4-6 c.)
1 whole dried chile pepper
1 tsp. fresh ginger, minced
1 tsp. black mustard seeds
2 Tbsp. ground fresh coconut
1 tsp. salt or to taste

In a medium saucepan, bring about 2 c. of water to a boil. Add yellow split peas or moong dal and turmeric powder and cook over medium heat, uncovered, for about 20 minutes, until lentils are semi-soft (should be al dente…do not overcook). When split peas are just tender, drain and set aside.

In a deep-sided skillet over medium heat, heat oil with whole red chili pepper. When oil is hot but not smoking, stir in mustard seeds and urad dal. Cover and fry until mustard seeds pop and urad dal is golden brown, about 30 seconds. Add minced ginger, fry briefly and then add the chopped onion and stir for 1 minute. Add the chopped greens and stir well, coating the spinach with the spices. Add 1/2 c. water and salt. Cover and cook over medium heat until spinach is tender, about 7-10 minutes. Stir occasionally.

Add drained lentils to greens mixture and blend thoroughly. Sprinkle with coconut, stir briefly and serve.

Other seasonal vegetables like sugar snap peas (2 c.), green beans (3 c. diced), or cabbage and carrot (3 c. shredded cabbage, 1/2 c. shredded carrots), can be substituted for the greens. Left-over Poriyal can be used to make a wrap sandwich for lunch.

In Season NW: Join the Parade!

I was trying to think of a good metaphor for the farmers' markets opening this week, and the first thing that came to my mind was popcorn. You heat the oil, pour in the kernels and at first there's nothing…then a few seconds later you hear a pop. A second later there are a couple more pops, then suddenly a chorus.

But however you choose to think of it, we're fast approaching the rolling waves of the harvest that summer represents, first with strawberries and early vegetables, then the fat cane and bush berries and fruits, peppers and tomatoes (left). I get excited just thinking about it, so before I go completely off into fantasy land, here's a roundup of markets opening in the next few days:

• Shemanski Park, Wed., May 4, 10 am-2 pm. The mid-week version of the big Kahuna that is the PSU market, it draws a big crowd of downtown office workers for lunch and a chance to restock the pantry before the weekend. In the South Park Blocks at Shemanski Park between SW Salmon and Main.
• Buckman Market, Thurs., May 5, 3-7 pm. A small, well-curated market, its Thursday afternoon slot has been a big hit with the residents of this inner eastside neighborhood. At SE 20th and Salmon between SE Belmont and Hawthorne in the parking lot of Hinson Baptist Church.
• Beaverton Farmers' Market, Sat., May 7, 8 am-1:30 pm. The area's signature farmers' market representing the bounty of Washington County and beyond, it is a destination for tourists and residents alike. On SW Hall Blvd between 3rd and 5th Streets in Beaverton.
• Hollywood Farmers' Market, Sat., May 7, 8 am-1 pm. A lively market in one of NE Portland's hot neighborhoods, it draws from people all over the city's east side. On NE Hancock between 44th & 45th Avenues.
• Oregon City Saturday Farmers' Market,  Sat., May 7, 9 am-2 pm. This suburban market has grown from a scattering of tents to a vibrant survey of the bounty of farms south of the city. 2051 Kaen Road, off Beavercreek Road.
• Moreland Farmers' Market, Wed., May 11, 3:30-7:30 pm. You'll find neighbors gathering to shop and visit at this mid-week market…it's also a perfect place to sit and nosh and soak up the mellow neighborhood vibe. At SE Bybee Blvd. and 14th St. with free parking across the street at SE 14th and Glenwood.
• Oregon City Downtown Market, Wed., June 1, 3-7 pm. The mid-week version of the Saturday market, it is located in the same spot that a "producers market" operated in 1924. 8th and Main Streets in downtown Oregon City.
• Montavilla Farmers' Market, Sun., June 5, 10 am-2 pm. Montavilla feels less like an urban market than one you'd find in a small town, with friendly neighbors laughing and local businesses joining in the fun with events and promotions. Between SE 76th and 78th Streets on Stark Street.

Look for a complete schedule of Portland and Willamette Valley farmers' markets on the Oregon Farmers' Market page.

In Season NW: Open for Business

This Sunday you might be celebrating spring with chocolate bunnies and a hunt for dyed eggs. You might be going to church in your best hat. Or dancing around a maypole. Or even celebrating International Workers' Day.

Me? Instead of buying a new frock, I'll be welcoming spring by attending one of the several farmers' markets opening in the next few days, stuffing my shopping bag with pea shoots, nettles, fiddleheads and other spring things:

• Hollywood Farmers' Market, Sat., April 30, 8 am-1 pm: A test run of the proposed Winter Market that will take over after the regular season ends, it will pilot a proposed year-round market in Hollywood. The regular market season opens Sat., May 7. NE Hancock between 44th & 45th Ave.
• Hillsboro Saturday Farmers' Market, Sat., April 30, 8 am-1:30 pm: This market reminds me of the markets in France where the farmers gather in the middle of town and neighbors come to shop and gossip. Great vendors, wonderful local feeling. On Main Street and 2nd Avenue, one block northwest of the Third Avenue MAX station.
• Hillsboro Sunday Farmers' Market, Sun., May 1, 10 am-2 pm: The second of Hillsboro's markets will open in its location at Orenco Station this season with produce, arts and crafts and live music. In the parking area between Orenco Station Parkway and NE 61st Avenue, just off Cornell Road.
• King Portland Farmers' Market, Sun., May 1, 10 am-2 pm: This popular neighborhood market launches its third season with new vendors and full schedule of events. NE 7th & Wygant between NE Alberta & Prescott in the parking lot adjacent to King Elementary School.
• Buckman Portland Farmers' Market, Thurs., May 5, 3-7 pm: A lively and diverse group of vendors, plus its afternoon hours, makes this market an eastside favorite. SE 20th & Salmon between SE Belmont & Hawthorne in the parking lot of Hinson Baptist Church.

Look for a complete schedule of Portland and Willamette Valley farmers' markets on the Oregon Farmers' Market page.

Livin' in the Blurbs: Thankful For What We've Got

Thanksgiving's just a little over a week away and that means I'm making lists of favorite foods and favorite people, and trying to remember where the heck I put the gravy boat after last Thanksgiving. Our farmers' markets are gearing up for the big day, too, with several reopening for a final blowout, many featuring special products and vendors. Think turkeys, brussels sprouts, squash, patés, jams, greens, cheeses…close to everything you'll need for this most seasonal of feasts. Check out what's going on at a market near you by going to GoodStuffNW's complete list of Willamette Valley markets to find links, maps and locations. Here's what a few are doing:

• Sat., Nov. 20, 8 am-1:30 pm: Beaverton Farmers' Market celebrates with a Harvest Market that not only has harvest-fresh foods for your table but holiday wreaths and garlands, gifts and stocking stuffers. SW Hall Blvd. between 3rd and 5th Sts., Beaverton.
• Sat., Nov. 20, 9 am-2 pm: Portland Farmers' Market's Thanksgiving Feastival with all things fresh and tasty for your holiday celebration. In the Park Blocks between SW Montgomery and Park.
• Sat. Nov. 20, 10 am-2 pm: Oregon City Farmers' Market shows off its new Winter Market that will continue every other week through April and has everything you need for a picture-perfect Thanksgiving. 8th Street at Main in downtown Oregon City.
• Tues., Nov. 23, 1-5 pm: Thanksgiving Reunion at Buckman Farmers' Market gives those of us who like to wait till the very last moment a shot at the freshest food, drink and trimmings. SE 20th and Salmon between Belmont and Hawthorne.

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Walk into any Portland Grand Central Bakery and Cafe this holiday season and you'll be bowled over by the colorful artwork from the women of the Zimbabwe Artists Project (ZAP) in Weya, Zimbabwe. Started as a cooperative effort by Lewis & Clark College sociology professor Dick Adams and the women of the village, 100% of the proceeds from the sale of the artwork goes to help the women afford food, clothing, school fees, medicine, seeds and fertilizer for their crops. Think of how good you'll feel each time you see it at your own home or one of your friend's (hint hint), knowing that it touched the life of someone halfway around the world. Isn't that what the holidays are all about?

Details: Benefit Show and Sale of artwork of the women of the Zimbabwe Artists Project at Grand Central Bakery and Cafes. Sale continues Nov.-Dec. Locations here.

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And don't forget to celebrate World Toilet Day on Friday (Nov. 19). What sounds like the opening line of some gross poop joke is actually an opportunity to understand the importance of sanitation and raise awareness for the 2.6 billion people (nearly half of the world's population) who don't have access to toilets and proper sanitation. The statistics are shocking: diarrheal disease kills five times more children in the developing world than HIV/AIDS or malaria; it stunts growth and forces millions of adults and children to take weeks away from school and work, affecting their education and income, which hits both a country's economy and its citizens' chances of a better future. And that's no joke.

Details: World Toilet Day, sponsored by the World Toilet Organization. Friday, Nov. 19. Donate here.