Holidays, Schmolidays: Bring On the Cola de Mono!

I love my neighborhood. Depending on the day, you can walk its tree-lined streets and catch the scent of smoke from barbecues and smokers wafting along the breeze. Other days the aromas of roasting chiles or the curry-like scents of Fijian cooking or the rich sauces of Chile will be brought to your nose. Let me tell you, it's more than once I've been known to shamelessly peer over the fence to comment on how delicious it smells, hoping the cook will get the hint and give me a bite.

We have an ongoing food-fest with our neighbors Kelly and Rodrigo. Kelly, a Texan, makes fabulous southern specialties like a deadly but irresistible Chess Pie, a little thing consisting of eggs, sugar, butter and more sugar. And more butter. And sugar. Rodrigo hails from Chile and treats us to Chilean delights like pastel de choclo (a beef and corn casserole) and chanco en piedra (tomato salsa served with bread).

Rodrigo had been talking about bringing over a Chilean holiday drink called Cola de Mono or Tail of a Monkey, a creamy, milk-based concoction laced with a goodly amount of pisco that tastes to me like a heady Bailey's. Pisco is a grape brandy that's made in the wine-growing regions of Chile and Peru. I'd only had it in cocktails like the Pisco Sour or, more recently, in the As You Like It, Dave Shenaut's creation featured as a special at Raven & Rose.

We'd scheduled a wine-and-snacks meetup here at the house with Kelly and Rodrigo, and when I opened the door and saw them bearing a full bottle labeled "Cola de Mono" in lacy script, I grabbed it, slammed the door and ran upstairs to slurp it in private. (Just kidding!)

After a few sips I begged for the recipe, and Rodrigo obliged. Cheers to terrific neighbors and sharing native libations!

Cola de Mono (Tail of a Monkey)

This is a traditional Chilean Christmas drink, usually served cold.

3 qts. whole milk
4 c. of sugar
Peel of an orange (about 1" wide by 2" long)
4 cloves
A pinch of nutmeg
1 stick of cinnamon
2 Tbsp. freshly ground coffee
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1 qt. Aguardiente*, grappa** or pisco

Boil milk with sugar, orange skin, cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg.  Once the milk has come to a boil, remove from stove and add the coffee and vanilla extract and stir constantly for about 5 to ten minutes or until the coffee dissolves as much as possible.

Once the mixture is cold, filter it (paper filters work best) or use a really fine colander with a paper towel. Add the spirit and pour into bottles with tight lids. Place in refrigerator and let it sit for a couple of days before serving. It will keep for a couple of weeks in the fridge.

Shake well before opening. Serve cold, over ice if desired (though not traditional). Can be garnished with a cinnamon stick or a sprinkle of cinnamon if desired.

* Aguardiente is a denomination of spirits that can range from vodka to sugar cane based, so the name is given not because of the source, but the alcohol content, which can be upwards of 120 proof alcohol. In Chile, Aguardiente is made from grapes and the alcohol content is usually somewhere between 45-55% (above 55% is illegal). Because aguardiente is a very generic term and the actual product and alcohol content varies from region to region, I suggest using a grape spirit such as grappa or pisco, preferably between 45-50% alcohol.

** Grappa, like champagne, is a spirit produced from grapes and can only be called grappa if it complies with certain requirements, such as being produced in a certain region of Italy. That’s why substituting it with a grape-based spirit like pisco can lower the cost considerably.

Summer Salad Smackdown: Feasting Chilean Style

I'd been looking forward to this particular evening for years, ever since I found out that one of my neighbors was from Chile. We'd see each other at the dog park, eventually sharing bottles of wine and dinners, and he'd promised that one day he'd make a real Chilean dinner for us.

That night finally arrived late this summer, and I'd volunteered to bring a salad to go with the pastel de choclo (a beef and corn casserole, left) and chanco en piedra (tomato salsa served with bread) he was planning to make. I asked if tomatoes would be appropriate, since they were ripening in our garden. He said tomato salads are very popular in Chilean cuisine, and I began researching various recipes online.

I ran across a website, Eat Wine Blog, written by an American woman living in Chile, Liz Caskey, that had a recipe that sounded very promising. I wrote to ask permission to use it on the blog and she wrote back immediately.

"This salad is a staple on every Chilean table," she wrote. "I am sure if you polled any Chilean, they would name this as a perennial favorite…The freshness of the tomatoes, mildness of the onions, and the herbs create crunchy, juicy, tangy, herby ecstasy in your mouth."

She added, "You'll be licking the plate, especially if they're heirloom tomatoes or the shirtsoakers we get here from Limache."

And you know what? She was absolutely right.

Chilean Tomato Salad

Adapted from Liz Caskey's Eat Wine Blog

1  red onion
1 tsp. of salt or sugar
6 c. chopped tomatoes, various colors and sizes
¼ c. cilantro, chopped fine
2 Tbsp. olive oil
1 tsp. red wine vinegar
Sea salt to taste
1/8 tsp. black pepper

Slice the onion paper-thin, cutting with the grain (lengthwise). Separate the sections with your fingers. To temper, sprinkle a teaspoon of salt or sugar, combine well with your hands to mix. Set aside for 30 minutes.

In the meantime, chop the tomatoes into a large bowl. Traditionally, most Chileans will peel them, though it's fine to leave the skins on.

When the onion has rested and rendered its “milk,” rinse it well with cold water and gently squeeze out the excess liquid. Arrange the onions on top of the tomatoes and top with the chopped cilantro. Drizzle with olive oil and red wine vinegar. Season with salt and pepper. Lightly toss before serving.