Discovering the Salish Sea: Port Townsend and Fort Worden, Pt. 3

Mention Port Townsend and I immediately think of its physical location: a forested point of land at the northeastern tip of Washington's Olympic Peninsula, jutting into the waters joining the Strait of Juan de Fuca with Puget Sound. This fortuitous placement made it an ideal seaport in the 19th Century, easy for large sailing ships coming up the West Coast to duck into, dock and unload their cargo.

Staircase detail with painted ceiling.

Which brings to my mind the other feature of the town, which is the astonishing number of intact Victorian homes ringing the port and climbing up the hills that overlook the harbor. Built by wealthy merchants and sea captains, many are still in private hands, and several others have been converted into bed and breakfast hotels. The large number of these historic buildings has given birth to a Victorian Festival in mid-March that features tours, a Victorian Ball and even a pub crawl of saloons and shanghai tunnels.

Elaborate Victorian post office.

What I didn't know about before this latest foray, courtesy of Christina Pivarnik of the City of Port Townsend, was Fort Worden State Park, originally a military facility built as an artillery fortification in the early 1900s to defend the Puget Sound. Now a state park that comprises more than 430 acres, it features 100 historic structures and spans two miles of saltwater shoreline with views of the Olympic and Cascade Mountains and the San Juan Islands.

View of parade grounds and the bay.

Our group of travel writers was scheduled to stay in one of the historic officers' quarters (top photo), and I was having a moment of déjà vu until Christina mentioned that the row of Victorian structures featured prominently in the movie "An Officer and a Gentleman." Built as duplexes to house the Fort's highest-ranking military families, they've been updated with modern kitchens and amenities and are available to rent to individuals or groups, some even designated as pet-friendly. Located overlooking the vast lawn of the parade grounds, the homes also have a stunning view out over the water.

Back in town there's beer with a view!

The grounds of the base include a large conference center and café, great for those of us who like a stroll with a destination that includes a snack, and ambitious plans are afoot to develop resort and education facilities over the next few years. Already there is a Marine Science Center on the property, 12 miles of hiking and biking trails, an artillery museum and a plethora of year-round activities for families and individuals, including the old gun batteries that are open for the public to explore (kids would love this feature, guaranteed). Plus, of course, a lively farmers' market in town from April through December.

Getting my steampunk on.

One incredibly charming feature of Port Townsend, and I'm not surprised considering its Victorian roots, is that it has become a nexus of activity for the steampunk community. In mid-June, in fact, you'll find the town flooded with characters straight out of a Jules Verne novel, outfitted for the annual Port Townsend Steam festival. One of the keepers of the flame for local steampunk enthusiasts is Olympic Peninsula Steam, which sponsors other steampunk activities throughout the year.

And don't worry if you don't have your goggles, helmet and hose—stop by World's End downtown like we did and get your steampunk on!

Read the other posts in this series: San Juan Island, Pt. 1 and San Juan Island, Pt. 2.

Discovering the Salish Sea: San Juan Island, Pt. 2

Water. I love it. Whether in it, on it or under it. My favorite summer activity growing up was going to the local swimming pool and spending as much time under the water as I could. Let the other kids chase their friends around the pool and splash—I was more interested in seeing what was going on beneath the surface, the quietness, the reflections of the sunlight dancing on every surface.

Yes, I was as happy as I look. (Hi, Kim!)

Which makes the San Juan Islands pretty much the perfect destination for a water-lover like me, with ferries chugging between small island-bound port towns and with water-based activities—kayaking, sailing, beachcombing, swimming, canoeing, you-name-it-they've-got-it—in abundance. So when I read that the media trip to explore the Salish Sea came with a choice of a kayaking expedition on its calm inland waterways, any other activities offered fell by the wayside.

We met Nate, the be-dreadlocked, smiling young tour guide from Discovery Sea Kayaks in Friday Harbor, and as he drove us to our launch site at San Juan County Park, he explained the route we'd be taking that day as well as procedures we'd need to follow. After hauling our boats down to the water, he paired us up, fitted us into our gear, adjusted the boat pedals and pushed us off. Freedom!

Paddling by the lighthouse at Lime Kiln Point.

Well, pretty much, anyway. The captain of our two-person kayak—I opted to sit up front—was family travel blogger Kimberly Tate, who ably piloted us out into the main channel as we headed south down the island to Lime Kiln Point State Park. As you can see from the photos, the day was spectacular…a not-too-warm, not-too-cool, virtually cloudless day with a very light breeze, perfect for paddling.

As we made our way to the park, Nate talked knowledgeably about the various creatures we saw, including seals and jellyfish, and the natural life of the island. He was impressively well-informed about the history of the place, from loggers and fishermen to the workers in the lime kilns that were visible from the water. He kept us on a steady pace, and three hours later when we pulled our kayaks back up on the beach, he estimated we'd paddled close to an incredible six miles that morning.

Perfect post-paddle spot, the Cask & Schooner.

After that, lunch was a necessity, and luckily for us it just so happened that the Cask and Schooner pub was just down the block from the Sea Quest storefront. Kim and I, exhausted but exhilerated, plopped down at a table and ordered pints of ice-cold microbrews, with which we toasted our intrepid-ness. The fish and chips were one of the better versions I've had in recent memory, though I'd have mowed through just about anything set before me after that morning of exertion.

The perfect capper to this day of outdoor water adventure was a whale-watching tour between San Juan Island and Port Townsend, the next destination on the trip. The Glacier Spirit, a mid-size boat with a comfy cabin and large windows, is part of the Puget Sound Express fleet owned by the Hanke family, who have been sailing the waters of the Salish Sea for three generations. Because it was a perfect, clear day, I spent most of the time on the wrap-around deck outside, the sunlight sparkling off the water.

Humpback whale diving.

These folks know the local whales' favorite hangouts, so it wasn't long before we saw our first whale gliding by. Regulations require that boats give the creatures a 200-yard berth and stay out of their path, as well as keeping a slow pace when they're within 400 yards—keeping the risk of any potential encounters to a minimum, as well as reducing engine noise that could disturb the whales' habitat.

During the three-hour tour (insert Gilligan's Island jokes here) we saw several whales spouting and, between sightings, the captain gave a running commentary on the habits and proclivities of the various types of whales that inhabit the area. As we neared our destination we had the great privilege of seeing two visiting humpback whales breaching, spouting and diving. And, despite the distance required, we were able to hear them breathing when they surfaced, a sight and a sound that brought tears to my eyes and is an experience I'll never forget. Such magnificent creatures.

Read the other posts in this series: San Juan Island, Pt. 1 and Port Townsend and Fort Worden.

Discovering the Salish Sea: San Juan Island, Pt. 1

Salish Sea: The intricate network of coastal waterways that includes includes the Strait of Juan de Fuca, the Strait of Georgia, Puget Sound and all their connecting channels and adjoining waters, such as Haro Strait, Rosario Strait, Bellingham Bay, Hood Canal and the waters around and between the San Juan Islands in the U.S. state of Washington and the Gulf Islands in British Columbia, Canada.

When I got an e-mail offering a three-day insider's tour of San Juan Island, Whidbey Island and Port Townsend, all part of the region connected by the waters known as the Salish Sea, I couldn't say yes fast enough. First, the deep-green forested islands dotting the waterways are drop-dead gorgeous—Dave and I have explored some of the San Juan Islands in Washington and their counterparts to the north known as the Gulf Islands of British Columbia—and second, this tour, with its marathon itinerary, promised an exhaustive, in-depth look at several aspects of the region, including agriculture, tourism and industry.

The Majestic Inn and Spa in Anacortes.

In order to get an early start in the morning, I made the just-under-five-hour drive to Anacortes, Washington, for a quick overnight stay at the Majestic Inn and Spa (left), a historic structure from the late 1800s that has risen phoenix-like from several near-death experiences. Overlooking both Guemes Channel and Fidalgo Bay and with a 180-degree view of Anacortes's historic district from the rooftop patio, it's also within strolling distance of many of the town's best restaurants and shops.

I love ferries. There. I said it.

Another reason I love this part of our region is not only that it's driving-distance close (yet feels like a world away) and has the aforementioned spectacular setting, but you get to ride ferries to travel from place to place. Big and small, some carrying cars and others only walk-on passengers, ferries are, for me, the exemplar of the romance of slow travel. Chugging at water level among the green hummocks of the small islands and the expansive farmlands of their larger brethren, you get a close-up view of the life of the people who live here. Your fellow passengers carry overstuffed bags of their city purchases back to their island homes. Fishing boats head out to find the day's catch and bring it back to restaurants and processors. Small towns dot the banks along the water's edge, serving tourists and townspeople alike with gift shops and marinas, small manufacturing plants and businesses.

In the belly of the whale museum.

The ferry ride from Anacortes took just over an hour to arrive at the ferry dock in Friday Harbor on San Juan Island, and we were whisked off by tourism maven Barbara Marrett for a whirlwind tour of the town's whale museum—where you can learn about the lives of the two types of Orcas, southern resident whales and transients, that inhabit these waters, as well as the humpbacks and grey whales—and its Museum of Art featuring the work of international artists as well as that of the island's well-known local artists.

Historic (and possibly haunted) James King farmhouse.

The San Juan Historical Museum is a large hillside property dotted with historic structures like the white clapboard James King farmhouse—rumored to be haunted—plus the island's original jailhouse and a log cabin, all open for touring. But it's becoming much more than that, with the barn being converted to an interactive Museum of History and Industry detailing the stories of the island’s fishing, farming, logging and lime industries.

San Juan Island potter Paula West.

We stopped for a quick lunch of deli sandwiches, salads and cookies on the outdoor deck at Market Chef—all its menu offerings star locally grown ingredients—and it was off to visit the pottery studio of Paula West. On the way Barbara told us about the work of the San Juan Preservation Trust, a non-profit land trust dedicated to helping people and communities conserve land in San Juan County. Primary funding for the land bank is from a one percent real estate excise tax paid by purchasers of property in the county, with other revenue coming from private donations, grants and interest income. An interesting factoid is that any county in Washington can establish a land bank like the one in their county, but to date none has.

Potter West, along with her husband, Joe Cooper, who does mixed media sculpture, offers tours of her home studio and gallery, and is happy to demonstrate her technique to visitors. They both participate in a yearly Studio Tour over one weekend at the end of spring, which gives a representative sampling of the island's dozens of working artisans in sculpture, jewelry, pottery, printmaking, glass, fiber and fine art.

Pelindaba Lavender Farm gift shop.

While I decamped to do a couple of interviews, the rest of the group toured Pelindaba Lavender Farm—I can personally vouch for the farm's lavender teas—which was established by Stephen Robins, a native South African who settled on the island in the mid-90s. The name, which in Zulu translates as "place of great gatherings," was originally a simple plan to protect a quiet valley property. It has grown into a publicly accessible parkland that grows lavender and sells lavender products, generating income that supports the property.

Innkeeper Farhad Ghatan playing Chopin while Roxie, his beloved mini-Aussie, sleeps.

Our accomodations for the night were at the Friday Harbor Grand, a sprawling home overlooking the town and the harbor in the distance. Now owned and meticulously (yet comfortably) renovated by the ebullient innkeeper,  master gardener and airplane pilot Farhad Ghatan, it was originally named after Judge Bowman, San Juan County’s first judge and one of Friday Harbor’s founders. After our dinner at the Bluff restaurant on the waterfront, we returned to the Grand to find Farhad at his grand piano playing selections from the classical canon, a nightly tradition at the inn.

Exhausted from a full day of touring, I fell into bed with cookies baked by our host and a sip of wine, looking forward to a kayaking trip early the next morning.

Read the other posts in this series: San Juan Island, Pt. 2 and Port Townsend and Fort Worden.