Quick Hits: Bollywood Theater & Eastmoreland Market

Right after we moved into our NE Portland neighborhood I made a complete food of myself after smelling the intoxicating aroma of smoky barbecue coming from someplace nearby. I wandered down the street, nose in the air, trying to discern from which back yard it was wafting. Fortunately, the surprised neighbor I hailed from the sidewalk was kind enough to offer me a rib rather than sicking his dog on me.

I similarly lose my senses when it comes to the herbs and spices of the various regional cuisines of India. All it takes is a hint of curry or tamarind, and I'm totally in the thrall of their sumptuous richness. Sadly, Portland has very few restaurants that do this country justice, most content to offer copies of the same old curries and stews, dals and raita.

Now comes a glimmer of hope that…be still my heart…we may be blessed with an establishment that truly understands this most diverse of culinary traditions. Troy McLarty, an alum of Chez Panisse and, more recently, at the much-lauded Lovely Hula Hands, has opened Bollywood Theater on NE Alberta, and a recent lunch there with a friend bodes well for the future.

Charmingly appointed with Indian tchotchkes and wall murals, Bollywood Theater does much, much more than get the sound track right. The menu, comprised of small plates of street food as well as curries (called Thali Meals) and vegetable sides, knows its samosas from its chutneys. The papri chaat, housemade crackers topped with chickpeas and potatoes drizzled with yogurt, tamarind chutney and cilantro, were fresh, creamy and crunchy and a great starter to munch on while we decided what else to order.

Goan-style shrimp was several big, juicy, tenderly moist shrimp in a rich coconut chile sauce with saffron rice. The beet salad, chunks of roasted beets with coconut milk and curry leaves, was one of the best beet dishes I've ever had and may be making an appearance here at the house this summer. I have to say that the dal, described as lentils simmered with spices, was a little blah compared to the other dishes but was far from disappointing.

Suffice it to say that this is a great, reasonably priced place to stop in for a snack or meal, and one that may draw you in again with its magical allure.

Details: Bollywood Theater, 2039 NE Alberta. 971-200-4711.

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Another magical place that draws me back again and again to its deep Southeast location is the Eastmoreland Market & Kitchen. Partly it's the Brigadoon-like surprise of finding not just a cute little café buried deep in the tony neighborhood surrounding Reed College, but more because of the consistently outstanding quality of its offerings, almost all of which are made on the premises.

In the morning its a sleepy little meeting spot for parents who've just dropped their kids off at nearby Duniway grade school or a place for dog-walking denizens to get their caffeine on. At lunch there are a dozen or so sandwiches on offer, most served with a side of chips and a wedge of nice pickle, along with deli salads from the case and daily soups.

Afternoons are dedicated to the previously mentioned coffees and menu items, plus beverages that include beer, wines and sodas. There's also the "market" side of the mathematical equation, which offers a broad selection of imported foods, meats and cheeses plus basics like boxed cereals and sundries, and they do a good business in take-out cold cuts and dinners from the kitchen before they close in the early evening.

A lunch stop the other day during one of the aforementioned dog-walking junkets had me ordering the house Cubano (top photo), a hefty roll packed with house-roasted pork, ham, assorted pickled vegetables and aioli that was mouth-wateringly satisfying. My dining and walking companion ordered the bocadillo de calamari (right) featuring fried calamari on a baguette with jamon serrano, manchego and aioli, a nigh-perfect combination of fried crunchiness and tender squid with an underlying smokiness. Wow.

I'd encourage you to seek out this little under-the-radar gem whether or not you've got errands in the neighborhood. It's that good.

Details: Eastmoreland Market & Kitchen, 3616 SE Knapp St. 503-771-1186.

Lovely Evening at Lovely Hula Hands

My friend Michel met friends on the patio at Lovely Hula Hands the other night, and I asked her to share their experience with GSNW.

If the official arrival of summer and warm evenings has you yearning for al fresco dining, get thee to Lovely Hula Hands on North Mississippi. It covers all the bases for a perfect summer supper: charming patio, sassy cocktails, seasonal menu and friendly service.

The patio, which is anchored by a rosy salmon-colored wall, is an inviting two-level oasis decorated with festive paper lanterns, sun umbrellas and pretty plantings. On the lower level, a softly bubbling fountain puts you in the mood to go with the cocktail flow. The signature drink, the Lovely Hula Hoop, is a refreshing blend of pineapple-infused Absolut vodka with lemon juice served up with a sugared rim. My personal favorite, the Mojito, is among the city’s best: a perfect balance of Bacardi silver, lime juice, muddled mint and just the right touch of sugar.

Local farm deliveries and the chef’s inspiration drive the menu, which changes regularly. But based on a recent visit, odds are it’s all good, all the time. Salads are real standouts. On a recent visit, plates of arugula with prosciutto and shaved parmesan went head-to-head with baby greens, hunks of creamy avocado and toasted almonds. Because we couldn’t decide which was more delicious, we shared both.

Our plan to share tastes of four different entrees went astray when three of us just had to have the duck ravioli in brodo with fresh peas and baby spinach. We were fully satisfied with the plump, perfectly cooked pasta squares in clear, rich duck broth until we tasted the other entrée on the table: grilled polenta with a creamy mushroom ragout and grilled asparagus. However, once our polenta envy passed, we happily returned to the ravioli and slurped up every drop of the lovely broth, accompanied with a tasty, affordable Cotes du Rhone.

Content from our leisurely meal of cocktails, starters, entrees and wine, we passed on dessert and took home the bottle of Louis Roederer bubbly we’d brought with us. Our server, who always seemed to appear at just the right time, had kept it chilled for us with nary a dirty look. Just as quickly as she’d whisked it away upon our arrival, she returned it to our table with the check and a smile. We’ll be back soon, and the bubbly may come along again, too.

Details: Lovely Hula Hands, 4057 N Mississippi. Phone 503-445-9910.

Lovely Hands Make a Lovely Evening

When someone calls and asks if I'd like to meet them for a drink and apps, I'm usually clapping my hands and jumping up and down before they finish the question. In the case of my cousin Julie it's a no-brainer, since she always has a list of places she hasn't tried yet and they're (so far, anyway!) always great.

This time we met down on Mississippi at Lovely Hula Hands, an early entry in the Mississippi sweepstakes and one that has garnered almost universal critical and public accolades for their drinks and their food. Initially located in a converted pink house at the south end of the avenue, they relocated up the street several months ago to a neglected brick building that originally housed a florist. It's now completely renovated in cool colors and retains its brick walls and 19th century feel, and they've recently added an arbor-covered back patio that's a great hang on a warm summer evening.

We started with coolers of their house Limedrops to set the mood for perusing the menu. Since the fam was heading out for dinner that evening, I didn't want to totally pork out beforehand. I settled on their fish cakes with preserved beets, chervil aioli and garden greens, the cakes having the requisite fish-rather-than-filler flavor and nicely (lightly) breaded and grilled. I love beets in any form, and the little jewels of red and gold were the perfect accompaniment to this dish.

Julie was ordering dinner and went for their penne pasta with sausage ragu, fava beans and parmesan, a hearty and flavorful bowl of goodness with just the right touch of spring from the favas. The sauce was light, so the sausage, beans and parma took center stage and gave it a nice depth of flavor without being too heavy for the warm evening. A glass of their syrah-cab franc blend alongside made it easy to catch up on the family news (smile for that video, you guys!).

With the vibe of a great spot to land after a day at work or a fun place to meet friends, it's got big tables that can accomodate larger parties both inside and out. Prices are moderate, so if you've been wanting an excuse to venture down the avenue, this would be a good place to head to.

Details: Lovely Hula Hands, 4057 N Mississippi. Phone 503-445-9910.