Quick Hits: Munchin' and Lunchin'

Three recent lunch stops were très tasty, not very expensive and speedy without being rushed. Check 'em out:

I'd been curious about Las Primas, the colorfully decorated little spot on North Williams Avenue advertising itself as a "Peruvian Kitchen." Not being familiar with the street food of that country, an adventurous friend and I decided to meet there for lunch.

Order at the counter and grab a seat.

The menu features a wide selection of snacks, salads, soups, sandwiches and sweets, with a fun yet thoughtful children's menu that my kid would have loved…simple sausages, fries, a cheese sandwich, mild roasted chicken and fish. Then there's a fairly extensive cocktail list divided between those made with pisco, a Peruvian white brandy, and rum, with a house sangria and a nice beer list.

Lots of choices…pick your fave!

Though we were tempted to indulge in what is rumored to be one of the best Pisco Sours in town, my friend and I both had work rather than naps on our afternoon schedules, so we demurred and opted for the housemade juice drinks and sandwiches instead. The sandwich menu runs heavy on meat with a couple of token offerings for the vegetarian and vegan-inclined, but there are several snacks and salads that would make a decent meal for those who prefer not to indulge in animal flesh.

My Buttifara, a ciabatta-like roll stuffed with pepper-rubbed sliced pork, mild chili pepper mayo, lettuce and a salsa criolla of lime-marinated red onions and cilantro, was super fresh, with plenty of moist pork and a hint of heat from the spread. They have several condiment sauces to choose from, as well, so you can pep the sammy up or down depending on your desires.

A great casual spot for lunch, it would also be fun for an early dinner with one of the aforementioned cocktails.

Details: Las Primas Peruvian Kitchen, 3971 N Williams Ave. 503-206-5790.

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Ever since my brother moved his wine shop, Vino, from its original location in Sellwood, I'd lost a reason to drive across town to Sellwood. Which is kind of ridiculous, considering the neighborhood is home to one of my favorite lunch spots, Jade Teahouse and Patisserie. Fortunately, a friend was in the mood for something warm, noodle-y and delicious, the weather having turned cold and dark in recent days.

Lucy (left) and April Eklund.

And when you need warmth with a side of neighborhood cheer, the place has few equals. Lucy Eklund, along with her husband and daughter, have built a little landmark for great food and pastries at very reasonable prices. What used to be a "secret menu" of specials has grown to be a list of its own along with the extensive regular offerings like Asian appetizers, sandwiches and noodle dishes.

I love choices!

My khao soi, a brothy, tomato-based soup with wide housemade noodles, wilted baby spinach and crumbled pork, was as good as I remembered, and my friend's crab and pork soup, which was new to the specials list, had a wonderful rich broth and lots of meaty bits buried in Lucy's version of udon noodles. Combined with a pot of tea personally brewed by teamaster (and local blogger/photographer) Josh Chang, this lunch was like being wrapped in a warm comforter—or one of Lucy's signature hugs.

Details: Jade Teahouse and Patisserie, 7912 SE 13th Ave. 503-477-8985.

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About lunchtime I not only start getting peckish, the morning's toast and coffee having worn off by then, but the lack of activity from sitting in front of the computer has a chill settling on my shoulders. So all it took was a quick call and I soon found myself grabbing my coat and heading out the door.

A recent side of pickled Asian pears…awesome!

I've been a fan of Boke Bowl since Patrick Fleming, Brannon Riceci and Tim Parsons started one of the first pop-up restaurant sensations to hit Portland. (The striking flavor and texture of Patrick's handmade ramen noodles prompted me to write an article about the art of making them.) Within a year they had gone from roving restaurateurs to brick-and-mortar barons, hosting legions of fans in the middle of one of the hottest new food locales in town.

A recent visit brought back the excitement of those pop-up days—if anything, the soup and sides are better and more consistent than back when they were essentially camping out in strange kitchens. The decor is bright and happy without being precious, and the crew in the open kitchen is dedicated to giving each customer a superior bowl and personal service.

It's great to see good folks succeed!

Details: Boke Bowl, 1028 SE Water Ave. 503-719-5698.

Quick Hits: Jade Teahouse and Ned Ludd

Ever since my brother moved his wine shop, Vino, from its decade-long home in Sellwood to a new (and awesome) location on 28th Avenue, I've been neglecting my haunts in the old neighborhood. One in particular, Jade Bistro, would spring to mind whenever I was craving a warming soup, a great banh mi or one of Lucy Eklund's stunning pastries. I returned a couple of weeks ago to find April, Lucy's daughter, smiling at me behind the counter despite my absence (which made me feel even guiltier) and Josh Chang working his magic with the mysterious, shining tower of tea tins behind the counter. Friends and I shared a big bowl of Lucy's rich, flavorful soup, billowing clouds of fragrant steam, the toothy handmade noodles giving testimony to what makes this place so special. We also split a spice-infused steamed chicken and a pork and eggplant concoction that reminded me how much I love purple ovoids, especially in Asian preparations. And of course we had to have a piece or two of Lucy's irresistible green Vietnamese wedding cake to take with us. As God is my witness, I swear that even without a case of wine to pick up, I'll be going back again soon.

Details: Jade Bistro, 7912 SE 13th Ave. 503-477-8985.

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For me, there's no better sign when walking into a restaurant than to see the chef butchering a pig just as service is starting. I mean, it really doesn't get fresher or more hands-on than that, does it? And sure enough, that's what Ned Ludd chef and owner Jason French was doing the other evening as I walked in with friends. Fortunately he did put down his very sharp knife long enough for a hug, but picked it right up again as we took our seats. Though I consider Ned Ludd to be one of my favorite places in town for a great meal, it had been awhile (yes, there's a theme here) since I'd been in. I'm happy to report that the service continues to be solid and the food is still stellar, all of it (well, except for the cold plates) coming from the glowing wood-fired oven that's front and center in the dining room. From the puffy warm flatbreads to the everything-made-in-house meat board to the pork, trout and amazing seasonal vegetable offerings, this place rocks my world every time. And with great cocktails and a very reasonably priced (and well-curated) wine list, it's easy to order a beverage that will complement the food perfectly. This place literally glows from the inside, and not just because of the fire in the oven…it's a genuinely friendly, completely Portland kind of place that draws you in with open arms.

Details: Ned Ludd, 3925 NE Martin Luther King Blvd. 503-288-6900.

A Jewel in Sellwood

Excuses. We've all got 'em. "Don't have time" is one of my regulars. "Slipped my mind" is becoming alarmingly frequent and, alas, all too true. "Had to answer an e-mail" slips in with startling regularity, too.

Such was the case when Dave and I had errands to run on the west side of the river and found ourselves peckish. Without a decent place to eat in sight, we opted to drive across the notoriously wibbly wobbly Sellwood Bridge and stop in at Jade Teahouse. That's when the cascade of excuses poured forth.

You see, Jade has been near or at the top of the list of my very favorite places since April Eklund (on right in photo at left) and her immensely talented mother, Cuong "Lucy" Eklund, opened it in October of 2008. Pretty soon April's exquisite design sense coupled with her mother's training as a chef and patissier in France, not to mention the handmade noodles, breads and pastries pouring out of Lucy's kitchen, made it an instant hit. And when PDXploration blogger Joshua Chang joined the team with his extensive knowledge and love for blended teas, as well as a killer smile and can-do attitude, things heated up even more.

But, and here's where the excuses come in, I hadn't been there in awhile and nothing gets past Lucy's eagle eye. So after her usual warm greeting, she very tactfully mentioned my absence from the lunch counter. Gulp. "Well…um…uh…" and brought up my brother's wine shop moving out of the neighborhood, the holidays, work, dragons, fires, floods.

Needless to say, Lucy just smiled and brought out her homemade roasted chile oil to go with my khao soi (top photo), a bowl of deeply flavorful broth filled with ground pork, tomatoes, chopped greens and some of Lucy's crazily light and luscious wide noodles. Dave opted for the beef and squash in red curry broth, another perfect combination and an ideal antidote to the wet, cold day outside.

Sufficiently fortified, we said our goodbyes and headed home, swearing to return soon despite work, holidays or dragons. Really.

Details: Jade Teahouse and Patisserie, 7912 S.E. 13th Ave. 503-477-8985.