Meaty Guy

I knew it was only a matter of time. When he was at Castagna, chef Kevin Gibson's meat board with its house-made lomo, patés, mortadella and cured lardo was a must-have, each one carefully chosen and exquisitely made.

Kevin's deviled eggs.

When he moved over to open Evoe with Pastaworks' Peter De Garmo, I knew it would take awhile for those hunks of aged deliciousness to show up on the menu, since the curing process takes months of hanging in a cool environment to achieve that heavenly flavor. In the meantime we made do (oh, how we suffer!) with his pickles and preserves, all sitting in their briny jars on the big front table.

Then yesterday when we went for some early afternoon snackage, on the blackboard behind him there they were again. We ordered our usual starter, Kevin's mustard-packed deviled eggs with fresh tarragon, and I sipped on a delicious 2008 Chateau Miraval Provence Rosé while Dave opted for an Anchor Steam on draft.

The best wurst yet.

It took, oh, maybe 15 seconds to wolf down the eggs (enjoying each and every chomp) until the house-cured duck with mâche (top) arrived with several thin slices at room temperature, meaning the fat was just beginning to melt and contribute its creamy texture to the ducky, delicate meat.

Sumptuous scallops.

Next up was a plate of Kevin's best "wurst," three slender sausages of pork loin and fennel with juices oozing from each bite, paired with a smashed potato salad with tarragon and a blop of dijon for dipping. And to finish this indulgent, yet amazingly inexpensive, respite we ordered Mr. Gibson's signature seared scallops with peeled grapefruit sections and avocado. If only every day could be this delicious!

Details: Evoe, 3731 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd. Phone 503-232-1010.

Photo of wurst from Eat. Drink. Think.