Bedeviled

What is it about eggs that has me all up-ons these days? Whether raw on beef tartare, mixed with hot bacon and pasta, scrambled almost before it leaves the chicken, poached or deviled, there is something about their ovoid perfection that rings my chimes.

Maybe it's the prize-inside-the-Cracker Jacks promise of the creamy, fatty yolk hidden inside its high-protein white jacket. Or its infinite variability. But when company's coming over, I take advantage of the opportunity to make one of my favorite appetizers ever. And, believe me, I've never had a guest say they only eat deviled eggs at summer picnics. These babies will disappear in wink and be replaced by contented smiles.

Spanish-style Deviled Eggs

6 hard-boiled eggs
2 anchovy fillets
4 Tbsp. mayonnaise
9 green olives, preferably anchovy-stuffed Spanish olives
Pinch of smoked Spanish paprika plus more for sprinkling
Moroccan harissa or other chile sauce for garnish

Halve eggs, putting yolks in small mixing bowl and placing whites on serving tray. Using long-tined fork, crush yolks until thoroughly mashed. Add anchovy fillets and mash into yolks. Chop six of the olives finely and add, with mayonnaise and pinch of paprika, to egg yolk mixture. Mix thoroughly. Fill whites with egg mixture and arrange on platter.

Slice each remaining olive into four rounds and top each egg with one, then put a small bit of the harissa on top of the olive. Put another pinch of smoked paprika into small mesh sieve and, tapping lightly, sprinkle platter with paprika. Serve.