Bipartisan Rumblings

The search for it has been going on at least since Homer's time. Books have been written about it and countless individuals have devoted years of their lives seeking out the perfect one. I'm talking, of course, about the quest for the ultimate homemade pie, that object of lust and admiration that has driven people to take to the road in the middle of the night.

And, dear readers, I hate to say it but you need go no further than the little boomlet that is Montavilla to find a near-perfect example of the art. To one side of the espresso machine at the Bipartisan Cafe is the small pastry case that, on my visit, featured several flavors ranging from apple to marionberry to mixed berry.

Now these aren't picture-perfect pies where every slice comes out looking like it had its own stylist to make it stand up just so with the edges crimped in triangular points. We're talking truly homemade pies where the berries moosh out because it's loaded with (duh) berries instead of thickener and the crust is bubbly and brown and flaky.

I'm tellin' ya, this is goooooood pie. Get a cup of coffee, grab a window seat and prepare to be satisfied that your hunt is finally over.

Details: Bipartisan Cafe, 7901 SE Stark St. Phone 503-253-1051.