Shopping Ethnic Markets

In case you didn't catch the sidebar to my article "A Ramen Renaissance" in the Oregonian's FoodDay section, I think this advice from Susana Holloway of Portland's Culinary Workshop is good to keep in mind when going to any ethnic grocery.

Don't be afraid!

Looking at a list of ingredients that includes things like kombu, dried sardines and bonito flakes (aka katsuobushi) might make you run straight back to the arms of Bobby Flay or Marcella Hazan.

I asked Susana Holloway of Portland's Culinary Workshop, who teaches classes on Asian cooking, what she'd recommend for someone who finds the thought of going to an Asian market intimidating if not downright scary.

First, she said, go to one of the larger Asian markets (see list of stores, below). They tend to be laid out more like Western-style grocery stores, with wide aisles and distinct departments for produce, meats, fish and dried goods. Plus, they'll often have signage in several languages, including English.

And while they are stocking more and more organic produce and gluten-free products, expect to find conventionally grown, though very inexpensive, vegetables and fruits and packaged goods with long lists of ingredients.

She also recommends first-timers going to an Asian market without a list in hand.

"What has worked for me has been to not necessarily come in with a recipe where I have to go around and find stuff," she said. "Give yourself some time to wander around the aisles and look at things. If you're the type of person who likes to go to grocery stores, it's the perfect place to do that. I've literally found myself wandering around the aisles in a grocery store for hours."

The larger markets, because their product mix attracts a diverse customer base, also tend to have better customer service departments. "Don't be afraid to ask for help," said Holloway. "After all, the shopping should be part of the overall experience."

Fubonn Supermarket
2850 S.E. 82nd Ave.
503-517-8877

H Mart
13600 S.W. Pacific Highway, Tigard
503-620-6120

Uwajimaya
10500 S.W. Beaverton-Hillsdale Highway, Beaverton
503-643-4512

Spice Route Runs Down Interstate

Where do you go when you need an exotic spice called for in a recipe? And I mean one most people have never heard of. One that's used infrequently, even in its country of origin. One that really can't be substituted for.

Sometimes, when a recipe calls for something I don't have in my spice drawer, I've left it out altogether. But this time, when a lamb shank recipe called for black cardamom pods, I went on a mission.

I stopped at a couple of Asian markets. No dice. I thought my luck might change at Caribbean Spice on NE 42nd and, while they said they used to carry it, it hadn't sold well. As I was heading out the door, the woman behind the counter called me back and recommended trying Fiji Emporium, a store that carries spices and ingredients from Fiji, India, Australia and New Zealand.

Score! Not only did they have the black cardamom pods I was seeking, but a dazzling array of other spices and grains in a crowded but very clean little store. The fellow behind the counter even seemed interested in what I was making with it, and pulled out a large container of lacy orange mace for me to sniff, saying it was often used with lamb as well.

So now I can add this spot to my list of great ethnic sources along with Rose International and Uwajimaya in Beaverton. And this one's a lot closer to home. Now, can anyone tell me what Junglee Chicken is?

Details: Fiji Emporium, 7814 N Interstate Ave. Phone 503-240-2768.