Grilled Vegetables: A Manifesto

Contributor Jim Dixon of RealGoodFood is a sweet, mellow guy, though you might get another impression from his writings about immature cruciferous flowers (aka raab) and a recent rant about grilling vegetables, below.

The Grilled Vegetable Manifesto

Don’t put any oil on vegetables before you grill them.

That’s it. Despite what every single thing ever written about grilling vegetables says (except, of course, by me), do not “lightly brush,” “gently toss” or in any other euphemistic way put any extra virgin olive oil on any vegetable before you cook it over a hot fire. (I won’t add my rant about the fire, but know that all of your grilling will be better if you do it over real wood charcoal; email me for details.)


Don’t put any oil on the vegetables before you grill them.
The vegetables don’t need oil to keep from sticking to the grill; they don’t stick without it. Any oil drips off, ignites and the resulting flames send little particles of burnt oil back up to your food. Oiling vegetables doesn’t do them any good. It’s a mistake. Don’t do it.

Grill your vegetables dry, which means not dry like the desert but free of anything other than a little water that might be left from washing. Cook until done, which usually means with a little charring from that intense heat. When the vegetables are done, put them on a platter, drizzle with extra virgin, sprinkle with flor de sal or your favorite salt and eat.

Some things get a little vinegar and some time. I usually grill the vegetables first, when the fire is hot, so they’re often at ambient temperature when we eat them. A simple salsa verde of chopped fresh herbs (mint, parsley, marjoram), garlic, olive oil, vinegar and capers is a nice addition to anything grilled, including vegetables (anchovy and oregano from Pantelleria are always in mine).

Asparagus is just coming on, and it’s one of the best vegetables for grilling (see above). The Katz Meyer Lemon Olive Oil is particularly good on asparagus, but hurry if you want some. All of the extra virgin olive oils I have will also be delicious, and you can squeeze a lemon for extra goodness. Chopped hard-boiled egg is good, too.

You Won't Miss the Meat

Summer grilling isn't all about searing big hunks of animal flesh, and contributor Jim Dixon of RealGoodFood whets my appetite for the tsunami of summer vegetables that are ready to flood local gardens and markets.

Even thought what we longingly call summer seems to be slipping by quickly, the last few days have been beautiful, and the warm weather leads to sitting outside in the evening for hours. I made dinner for old friends tonight, and this dish, improvised from the vegetables I’d planned to be a sort of ratatouille, was just right.

Summer Ratatouille with Grilled Vegetables, Tomatoes & Capers
 
Let me first repeat what’s become my rule for grilling vegetables: do not use any oil before grilling. I’ve yet to find plant material destined for a hot fire that needs it, and the oil just burns. Leave the vegetables dry.

Slice an eggplant into rounds, summer squash into long halves, a couple of bell peppers (any color, but red or yellow are best) into quarters, and a couple of leeks in half lengthwise. Grill them over hot coals, turning as often as necessary to get nice and brown. Remove to a platter when done, then cut into smaller chunks (quarter the eggplants, etc., just to make serving easier; or not). Top with a few good tomatoes, cut into pieces about the same size as the grilled vegetables.

Pour on a quarter cup or so of Katz Late Harvest Zinfandel or one of the other amazing Katz Orleans method vinegars, drizzle generously with your best extra virgin olive oil, sprinkle with flor de sal and toss on a couple of tablespoons of salt-packed capers, rinsed and soaked in cold water for 15 minutes. If you’ve got some fresh oregano or other herbs in your garden, sprinkle some over the top. Best, I think, at room temperature.