Wildfire Burns, Breaks Hearts in Oregon

There's no other way to say it: I am devastated.

The Eagle Creek Fire in Oregon's Columbia River Gorge is turning a lifetime of memories to ash. The geography of a life spent traveling its trails, byways, forests, streams and rivers is being consumed in fire. Childhood trips to Multnomah Falls to stand on the dainty Benson Footbridge gaping at the impossibly high water cascading over a cliff and thundering into a pool far below, then having a lunch of luscious salmon sandwiches—so much more decadent than our standard Bumble Bee—in its stone lodge.

Stonework on the old highway near Oneonta.

Driving up and down its length to Eastern Oregon for family holidays with grandparents, then, later, riding the Greyhound home from college after my folks moved to The Dalles. And after college, that drive, always fraught in the winter months, not sure what challenge we'd face between Cascade Locks and Hood River. Blinding snow and black ice, driving winds that would buffet my little car like it was in a pinball machine at the mercy of a demented player.

Oneonta tunnel, before the fire.

The stunning beauty of the soaring rock cliffs shooting up from the wide expanse of the river, sheer expanses carpeted in Douglas fir and dotted with little towns—Bridal Veil, Dodson, Warrendale—along the way. Growing up, a stop at the Charburger in Cascade Locks for coffee and, if we begged enough, a piece of pie, was de riguer; a tradition that Dave and I continued for years with our own son.

Spectacular woodcraft in Oneonta tunnel, now gone.

We'd see its hills change from the pale green of spring to the richer hues of summer, then explode into the vibrant palette of fall. A profusion of lupine, daisies, penstemon, vetch, buttercups, Douglasia, kitten tail and other wildflowers would dot creeks and roadways, trees cackling with birdcalls.

It was a gem that we'd reveal to visitors, saying, "Oh, let's drive to Hood River for a beer," then stun them with stops along the historic highway, listening to them gasp at its waterfalls, as we'd tell them about the Italian stonemasons who crafted its moss-covered parapets, railings and bridges.

Oneonta tunnel after the fire.

As my brother said, "A big part of a lot of our lives lies in ruins." It will take at least a generation, or more, to recover.

Donations can be made to Friends of the Columbia Gorge, designated to search and rescue operations, or to Trailkeepers of Oregon, which will be working on restoration efforts. Video at top from 2010.

Christmas Family Fun on the Water

Everyone loves a parade, and considering the importance of the Willamette and Columbia Rivers to the origins of Portland, it's no wonder that for the past 60 years that we've celebrated those waterways with their own parades.

It began with one guy festooning his craft with ribbons and bows and sailing up and down both rivers in his boat, but pretty soon his mates joined him in the fun and it became a holiday tradition. With nearly 60 ships signed up this year between the two rivers it's bound to be quite a spectacle. Check Christmas Ships Parade for the full schedule, along with suggestions for prime viewing spots, or you can make a reservation at Salty's on the Columbia for a comfy seat overlooking the river and a heated deck from which to view the procession.

In true Portland fashion they've taken to social media to live tweet the parades, so you can follow the minute-by-minute excitement from @ChristmasShips. They've even got separate hashtags for each river, so you can search for #WillametteFleet or #ColumbiaFleet for updates and photos. Pretty 21st Century for a 60-year-old!

Bedecked: Watching the River Flow

"Don't push the river, let it flow."

There's nothing better on a summer afternoon than kicking back with a tall, cold drink in your hand. Even better, kicking back with a tall cold drink and a killer view of the Columbia River flowing by. Last week I got a chance to visit two of Portland's best river-viewing platforms, and they couldn't have been more different.

Two happy hour fish tacos.

Someone described The Deck "like taking a vacation to Mexico without leaving the city." Imagine a big floating dock set with umbrella-ed tables and a bar at one end, lots of Mexican beer signs and patrons having a great time and you've pretty much got the ambience. It's like dropping in on a dock party, since The Deck is located smack in the middle of a large marina, with boats big and small all around and great water-level views of the working river.

Fancy it's not—a roll of paper towels substitutes for napkins—but there's always a breeze, welcome on hot summer days, and there's a shaded canopy section for the UV sensitive. They've got several craft beers on tap, they serve a very fine margarita and their limited cocktail menu is nothing to sneer at. The food is a lot better than you'd expect, too, with delicious fish tacos, a black-and-blue Ahi tuna burger that is seared to perfection, housemade potato chips and an excellent, value-driven happy hour menu that lasts all day. When I ordered tacos off the regular menu, my server said I could get two happy hour tacos for less than the same ones on the regular menu ($11 vs. $11.75). Gotta love service like that!

Details: The Deck, 2915 NE Marine Dr. in McCuddy's Marina at 33rd and Marine Drive. Website says "you can come by boat, jet ski, kayak, car, bike or motorcycle. Parking is available in McCuddy's Marina. 503-283-6444.

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A mere half-mile or so upriver from The Deck you'll find Salty's on the Columbia, another stellar place to hang out and watch the river course by on its journey to the Pacific. But it feels like it's a million miles away in just about every other way.

This place is seriously old school…two stories of open windows frame the view, and the wraparound decks—bar above, restaurant below—soar above the river. There are no waves to rock you on this land-based bastion and no breeze will ruffle your hair thanks to the tall glass windbreaks protecting you and your tableware from any disturbance.

The cocktails are classics, too, deftly handled and well-executed, but the food, well, the food is what you'd expect from a place that caters to an older, less adventurous crowd. You'll find no fresh-from-the-farmers' market surprises or molecular gastronomic creations on this "waterfront seafood grill" menu. The fish is handled respectfully, though their signature coconut prawns appetizer, breaded, deep-fried, and dipped in grated coconut, can be light and delectable one trip and stale and cardboardy the next. Salads are good if you stick with the classics—my shrimp and crab Louis was a decent version even if the crab was somewhat hard to find.

But older relatives, more conservative business types and out-of-towners will love this place and talk for years about the time you took them there. And, seriously, there really is no faulting the awesome views.

Details: Salty's on the Columbia, 3839 N.E. Marine Dr. 503-288-4444.

My Awesome Summer: Okanagan Bound

The second trip this month is a road trip in Chili up to Canada's Okanagan to check out the region and the wines of eastern BC for future features.

Yesterday Dave and I explored new territory (for us) along the upper Columbia River, crossing it three…yes three…times on our way up to the tiny village of Twisp, Washington, where we discovered an insanely great B and B (the Methow Valley Inn) and had one of the best Italian dinners I can remember (at Tappi's).

Again, a full post will be forthcoming…a reason to look forward to some downtime this fall!

Hit the Deck

 

On a hot summer day, when there aren't enough fans in the whole world to cool the air in our house, what I want more than anything is a cool drink brought to me as I sit under the dodger of a sailboat out on the river. Since a sailboat isn't exactly close at hand, I've discovered the next best thing at The Deck, my new favorite getaway.

Picture this: a gorgeous sunny day, a comfy deck with a sweeping view of the Columbia River that allows a cooling breeze anywhere from teasing to capable of whipping up (small) whitecaps on the water. Now imagine a happy hour that runs from 11 am to 6 pm with prices on well drinks (including a very nice margarita) for $3.75 and domestic beer for $2.75.

On top of that throw in snacks including a bulging fish taco overflowing with honey batter-crusted halibut showered with cabbage and fresh tomato (with a side of chips and salsa) for $4.75, or maybe a half nacho or a shrimp cocktail for about the same price. It's a great, casual place to take in the river view with out-of-towners or friends, and there's a big awning over part of it for the sun-wary.

What's wrong with this picture? Only the fact that I'm not there right now. Which I will remedy in the very near future, and so should you.

Details: The Deck, 2915 NE Marine Dr. in McCuddy's Marina at the intersection of NE 33rd Dr. and Marine Dr. 503-283-6444.