The Dishes: Let's Make a Deal and a Classic Returns?

Genoa, the progenitor of Portland's rise to hotness as a food mecca, has been sold after much rending of robes and gnashing of teeth over its closing a few months ago. The new owners are beginning the process of engaging in a discussion with the community, as they say, "in an effort to re-open the restaurant in a meaningful and sustainable way."

If you'd like me to pass on your thoughts on the subject, simply click on the comments link below.

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What do clarklewis, Bluehour, 23Hoyt, and Saucebox have in common?

Yes, they're three of Portland's best restaurants, with tabs for dinner that can run well over $100 for two. But now they're also offering three courses for $25, a sure sign that there's been a cooling (if not an outright freeze) in restaurant spending.

And now Castagna is jumping into the fray with a series of Thursday Night Flights featuring "an exploration of three wines from small wine producers in lesser known wine regions around the world." Each wine will be paired with a specific dish, and will also be available a la carte. The four-course dinner runs $30 with the wine pairings an additional $15 for three three-oz. pours. The schedule looks like this:

• Mar. 19: Austria. Bouillon with nettle dumplings; chanterelle and mâche salad; rouladen with rotkraut and spaetzle; linzertorte
• Mar. 26: Trentino. Minestre d’orzo (barley-salsify soup); house-cured speck with mâche; grilled lamb and lamb sausage with buckwheat polenta; fritelle di mele (apple fritters with vanilla ice cream)
• April 2: Alto Adige. Potato Leek soup with schuttelbrot; smoked trout with mâche salad; peppered pork loin with braised cabbage; pistachio semi-freddo

Details: Thursday Night Flights at Castagna. 4 courses, $30; wine pairings add $15. 1752 SE Hawthorne Blvd. Phone 503-231-7373.

Happy Hour, Indeed!

When my pal Dana suggested going to the opening of Tom Miller's show of new prints from his African Queens series at Augen Gallery, I was on board. It wasn't just because I love Tom's work, though that goes without saying. But when she mentioned stopping by 23 Hoyt for a drink and a nosh beforehand, it was a done deal.

In the cosmetically made-over location of the over-the-top, corporatized Balvo, this place fits its upscale location like a Donna Karan cashmere sweater. Low lighting and tall windows looking out on the street make you feel like you're part of the scene, and the prices of the appetizers (in groups from $1-6) are easy to scan and very reasonable.

I chose the drink special, an Old-fashioned, a slightly sweet version of this classic bourbon cocktail. Then we chose some roasted almonds and a bowl of spicy fried chickpeas, which I started scarfing like popcorn and enjoyed immensely. Then we chose a grilled goat cheese wrapped in radicchio with tapenade and bread and an order of Indian-spiced chicken skewers.

The goat cheese was warm and luscious, and the tapenade had that classic slightly fishy flavor under the salty kalamatas that complemented the creaminess of the chevre. The chicken skewers lacked character in comparison, but were fine if somewhat plain.

All in all, a successful outing, quick and satisfying. From the prices on the dinner menu it'll be awhile before (or if) we get there for dinner, but this fit the bill for a pre-event stop.

Details: Happy Hour at 23 Hoyt. Tues.-Sat., 5-7 pm. 23 Hoyt, 529 NW 23rd Ave. Phone 503-445-7400.