Filling Up at Fuller's

A friend and I decided to celebrate her birthday with a trip to the farmers' market and then breakfast at the restaurant of her choice. We could have done the Heathman, Besaw's or one of the excellent choices on Alberta like the Tin Shed or Helser's. But then Fuller's came up, which it turns out neither of us had ever (embarrassingly) been to.

So we schlepped the few blocks north to what has to be one of the last workingman's eating establishments left in the former industrial district now known as the oh-so-chichi Pearl. Its two u-shaped counters are surrounded by windows and photos of the restaurant from its heyday in the middle of th last century.

You sit on chrome stools and order from a menu that will take you back to the kind of breakfasts that you loved as a kid...big thick pancakes, hash browns that aren't a geometrically perfect shape, coffee that is just a decent cup o' joe (with a doily if it's decaf). Their special of Pigs in a Blanket is something an 8-year-old would die for: a giant pancake stuffed with link sausages, sprinkled with powdered sugar and served with a pitcher of syrup.

Their prices are very reasonable, and their sides are well done and also decently priced. So if you want to travel back in time, or have an uncle who wishes he could have just one honest breakfast before he dies, this is the place to come.

Details: Fuller's Coffee Shop, 136 NW 9th Ave. Phone 503-222-5608